Jim enjoys driving the new Peugeot hatchback because it’s a compact car with a diesel engine and enough power to feel safe on the European autobahn. We appreciate its small size, which makes finding parking in tight spaces easier and allows us to navigate small roadways more conveniently. The trunk fits our two suitcases perfectly, keeping them out of sight. Jim decided to lease the car since it was a much better deal than renting; for example, renting in 2007 would have cost $1,200 for three weeks with 100% insurance coverage. By choosing to drive, Jim wanted us to have the flexibility to explore spontaneously and venture away from typical tourist areas.
The Netherlands:
Ede, Zutphen, Appeldorn
Buck540 quote: "The name Holland is widely used as being equivalent to the Netherlands; its use is similar to the use of England for the United Kingdom, or Russia for the defunct Soviet Union. Mainly people from other parts of the Netherlands sometimes object to this. They will point out that they are from the Netherlands, instead of the smaller part of the country that is called Holland. People from the southern provinces Limburg and Noord Brabant (Northern Brabant), which are mainly Roman Catholic, retain some bad sentiments against Holland. During the time of the United Provinces these areas did not have any political liberties and were exploited as colonies. A culture of this exploitation and the feeling of being exploited remained until the second world war; only after this war, with the true modernization of the Dutch society did they become more free and did their relative power increase. The anti-Holland sentiment remained however, and is still relatively alive in these parts of the country." unquote
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B&B in Ede, Netherlands. This house was on the front lines during WW2 and still has bullet holes in the walls. |
We drove to the small town of Ede in the Netherlands, where a Bed & Breakfast awaited us. Upon arriving at Jose and Cor’s Landman B&B, we were warmly welcomed into their historic and cozy house. Most importantly, we received a delightful greeting from their three wonderful cats!
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B&B cat who liked to join us for breakfast. |
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B&B cats snuggle in for the afternoon! |
Our Dutch hosts put on a breakfast spread for a king and queen. In the morning, we would be served a boiled egg, deli cold cuts, various fresh-baked breads and croissants, fresh yogurt with berries, cheese slices, jam, and tea served in Jose’s cozy kitchen. We would pack up what we couldn’t eat and take it with us for our lunches between spontaneous adventures. They have a wonderful BIG shower and a huge soaker tub, which I indulged in to ease my achy bones. Lovely garden property, and we like that the B&B is within walking distance of Ede's village center.
The history of Ede is linked to the Canadian military during World War II, as this B&B was located on the front line for Dutch resistance during Operation Market Garden. At that time, Ede hosted a military camp, which is still in operation today, though without German forces or the war.
Ede is an upbeat little Dutch town with plenty of visual interest, featuring both modern and historical Dutch architecture and beautiful gardens. The locals enjoy speaking English, and we experienced friendly service wherever we went. The shopping options are diverse, with well-stocked shops throughout the village. We encountered a vibrant community of relaxed shoppers, which made for a joyful experience.
The outdoor gardens and their elegant preservation are among the best I have ever seen, second only to the Emerald Palace in Bangkok, Thailand.
Exotic statues and elegant water fountains are scattered throughout the gardens, arranged in a geometric grid. A variety of fall plants are still blooming, and we feel refreshed as we stroll through the cooler air with the filtered sunlight.
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Cor and Jose, our B&B Hosts
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Cor is a historian who shared his passion and knowledge of Dutch history with us. Jose is a multi-creative person who was instructing students on how to make dried flower wreaths out back in the cottage shop. We really enjoyed this couple and their vibrant outlook on art and life.
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Church steeple in Ede |
The history of Ede is linked to the Canadian military during World War II, as this B&B was located on the front line for Dutch resistance during Operation Market Garden. At that time, Ede hosted a military camp, which is still in operation today, though without German forces or the war. |
Entering the village of Ede. We thought we had a compact car, but this little red car is half the size! |
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Small cars are popular in Europe. The Smart car in Canada is considered small, but this one is even smaller. |
During our visit, we explored a few pubs, each offering a unique selection of beers. The patrons were happy to share their stories and recommend their favorite brews with us. When we were asked why we chose to visit Ede, considering it’s not typically a tourist destination, Jim replied that it seemed like a great place to explore—and it truly was!
We enjoyed our first Dutch dinner pancake, paired with a dark autumn beer, Hertog Tan Bockbier, at a popular Dutch pancake house franchise called Pannekoekhuis.
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Ede has lots of building decorative details Every window has a display of flowers, plants, or objet d'art! |
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The design showcases a blend of modern and traditional Dutch architecture. |
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As I walk around the village of Ede, I notice that everyone has well-maintained landscaping with plants and shrubs. Each house is unique, with subtle variations; no two houses are exactly alike. This diversity adds character and charm to the village. |
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No matter how small the lots are, everyone customizes their landscaping while keeping bushes and trees pruned to perfection. |
Not only did stores have beautifully designed window displays, but every self-respecting home also paid attention to its public-facing windows. Many showcased lovely plants in decorative pots, large vases filled with fresh flower bouquets, or unique objects of art. I felt like I was in visual heaven, as I used to have my own business focused on store displays. I, too, have treated my window sills as a place to feature plants and artistic objects.
Like the Dutch, I believe that no matter the size of the space, there is always something to display that brings visual delight, whether it's found objects, art, or sculptures on window sills and in gardens. Ede's community is filled with charming little gardens, and their attention to detail is truly commendable.
As we stroll through the neighborhoods, we can't help but notice the vibrant scenery around us. People zoom past on their bikes, heading to various destinations with fresh faces and flowing hair. In the Netherlands, it's common not to see many cyclists wearing helmets. If you bring up the topic, you can quickly spark a lively debate about whether helmet use should be mandated by law!
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You know you're in Holland when you see a windmill surrounded by beautiful, lush gardens! |
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The town square in Ede is lined with shops and modern apartments. |
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The shopping core of Ede. |
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Turn around at the edge of Ede town center. |
We visited several charming little shops in the village center, hoping to find shoes that would fit my uniquely difficult feet. I have a foot type known as the European foot, which means my feet are wide with high arches and narrow heels. Additionally, I wear a size 6.5, while most European foot sizes average around 8, making it challenging to find size 6.5 in stock. Unfortunately, shoes made in China rarely fit me well, if at all. Being in Europe, I am willing to spend whatever it takes to find shoes that fit.
One thing I noticed in the shoe shops is that the Dutch love wearing boots in all styles, but I am specifically looking for funky walking shoes. After searching, I couldn't find anything I liked that fit me, so I had to pass on shoes. However, I did come across some fun clothing shops and bought a few items. We’re not big shoppers, but we appreciate well-made European products over poorly made items any day.
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Mushroom village! |
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Nationale Park De Hoge Veluwe Pannekoekhuis is a popular pancake restaurant among the Dutch. It is located in the wooded neighborhood of Otterlo. |
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A popular pancake restaurant among the Dutch is Pannekoekhuis. They serve authentic local sausages, Dutch-style pancakes, and craft beer from a small brewery, making it a favorite hangout for dinner. The service was friendly and patient with our many questions, as the menu was not in English. We had a great time, and while we were deciding what to eat, the restaurant filled up, with every table occupied. Everyone welcomed us, “THE CANADIANS!” |
We enjoyed our first Dutch dinner pancake, paired with a dark autumn beer, Hertog Tan Bockbier, at a popular Dutch pancake house franchise called Pannekoekhuis. It was delicious! We really appreciated the meal after our Kroller Müller tour and a three-hour bike ride through the Otterlo countryside.
Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe in Otterlo, Netherlands, features vast stretches of stunning countryside that can be explored on foot or by bike. Visitors with park entrance tickets can use the park's bicycles to tour the well-maintained bike paths. These groomed trails lead through designated protected areas, including farmland, wooded regions, historical sites, and even a surreal-looking desert.
The Kröller-Müller Museum, known for its impressive collection of art and sculpture, was established by the wealthy Kröller-Müller family. They aimed to promote art education in their homeland.
The Kröller-Müller Museum not only showcases works by Van Gogh but also features pieces by other modern artists that I had not yet discovered before my visit.
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Nationale Park De Hoge Veluwe Bikes come with a park entrance fee. |
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Otterlo, Netherlands Fantastic, well-kept bike trails are a pleasure to ride throughout the park. |
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While biking across historical scenic views. The 1920s hunters' lodge called The Jachthuis Sint Hubertus is located by the lake. |
Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe in Otterlo, Netherlands, features vast stretches of stunning countryside that can be explored on foot or by bike. Visitors with park entrance tickets can use the park's bicycles to tour the well-maintained bike paths. These groomed trails lead through designated protected areas, including farmland, wooded regions, historical sites, and even a surreal-looking desert.
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Nationale Park De Hoge Veluwe in Otterlo has a desert that grows annually. |
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Nationale Park De Hoge Veluwe in Otterlo |
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Nationale Park De Hoge Veluwe in Otterlo. Biking through the park, the scenery changed as we peddled. The purple heather plants set off the beautiful greens of the trees. |
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Crusher dust pathways made for an easy cruise on the bike trails throughout Nationale Park De Hoge Veluwe in Otterlo. |
A wide variety of bikes can be seen on the trails, with riders of all ages enjoying them. Many older riders are healthy and find no need for cars, especially when the bike trails are scenic and well-maintained.
Here’s a link to explore the different styles and functions that bicycles have to offer: www.urkai.com/european-bikes/. I could imagine moving to Holland just to ride my bike every day with my cute little dog in a basket!
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Kroller-Muller art & sculpture museum in Otterlo, Netherlands |
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Entrance to the Kroller Muller Museum in Otterlo. |
Nationale Park De Hoge Veluwe in Otterlo surrounds the Kröller-Müller Museum, which features a stunning sculpture garden and an impressive collection of modern art housed in an elegantly designed building. I was truly amazed by its extensive collection, which includes the second-largest assortment of Van Gogh paintings in the world.
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Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo, Netherlands |
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Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo, Netherlands |
I had only ever seen Van Gogh's paintings in print until this moment. When I turned a corner to enter another room, I was blown away by the experience of seeing the Van Gogh paintings in person for the very first time! I could get close enough to appreciate the multitude of paint layers and the textural brush strokes that aren't visible in reproductions.
Since it was fall, there were only a handful of people in the museum, so I didn’t have to deal with the usual crowding that can occur in busy museums. I could simply stand in front of my favorite artworks and fall in love with them undisturbed.
"The Kröller-Müller Museum boasts the second-largest Van Gogh collection in the world: almost 90 paintings and over 180 drawings. The Van Gogh Gallery displays varying selections of about 40 works by Vincent van Gogh. Furthermore, you will also find masterpieces by modern masters such as Claude Monet, Georges Seurat, Pablo Picasso and Piet Mondriaan".
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Entrance to the Kroller-Muller art museum. LOVE the spiral neon art! |
The Kröller-Müller Museum, known for its impressive collection of art and sculpture, was established by the wealthy Kröller-Müller family. They aimed to promote art education in their homeland. The wife, Helene Kröller-Müller, began acquiring works by Van Gogh and other modern European artists when it was still relatively easy for collectors to obtain pieces by these masters.
Today, the value of this art far exceeds what most collectors and museums can afford. I am extremely grateful to the Kröller-Müllers for dedicating this remarkable collection to our enjoyment, all for a modest fee. What a treasure!
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Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo |
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Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo |
The Mullers wanted to leave a legacy of modern art, and they also needed a new modern architectural building to house it all for public viewing. It took many years to build the art museum, and as expected, with most construction projects, it went over budget.
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Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo |
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LOVE this sculpture of a modern duck! Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo |
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Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo |
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Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo |
Outside the Kröller-Müller Museum, there is an impressive display of modern sculptures. We strolled through a picturesque passage filled with natural settings, including woodlands and ponds. I was eager to take photos, but we had to head inside the museum soon, as it would be closing shortly!
"In the sculpture garden, one of the largest in Europe, you can enjoy both sculptures and nature. Distributed throughout the garden are over 160 sculptures by iconic artists, from Aristide Maillol to Jean Dubuffet, from Marta Pan to Pierre Huyghe."
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Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo |
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Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo |
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Outside the Kroller-Muller museum Looking inside, time to go see some paintings! |
During my time there, I encountered a painting by Diego Rivera, who spent some time in Europe and created a cubist artwork reminiscent of Picasso's style.
Unfortunately, photography is not permitted inside the museum, so all my photos will only capture the sculptures outside.
After visiting the Kröller-Müller Museum, we can use our entrance fee toward free bike rentals. This allows us to ride around the expansive park area and enjoy the beautiful natural landscape along its well-maintained bike paths.
One remarkable destination to visit in the Netherlands is the Paleis Het Loo National Museum in Apeldoorn. This palace was favored by King William of Orange and later by Queen Wilhelmina. The palace showcases 300 years of the Orange-Nassau dynasty's history, spanning the 17th to the 20th centuries, and features a rich collection of furniture, paintings, and decor from various eras.
Paleis Het Loo National Museum was home to royalty until the 1980s. We decided to take a tour and rent headsets that narrated the stories of each room, highlighting the personal tastes and interior design influences from different eras. It is a museum dedicated to the history of furniture!
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| Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo |
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Kroller Muller, Otterlo. The building is open to the outside and features common building materials, serving as a backdrop for more sculptural pieces. |
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Kroller Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo |
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Kroller-Muller Sculpture Garden in Otterlo, Netherlands. We couldn't help ourselves! I had Jim pose behind the sculpture, using the common concrete brick wall as a backdrop. We call this photo, 'Bond, James Bond'! |
After visiting the Kröller-Müller Museum, we can use our entrance fee toward free bike rentals. This allows us to ride around the expansive park area and enjoy the beautiful natural landscape along its well-maintained bike paths.
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Paleis Het Loo in Apeldoorn, Netherlands The orange tree celebrates the royalty named Orange. |
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Paleis Het Loo Guards and Horses |
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ENTRANCE to the Paleis Het Loo National Museum |
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum The Netherlands ENTRANCE. |
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum, Netherlands Inside the garden area, |
Paleis Het Loo National Museum was home to royalty until the 1980s. We decided to take a tour and rent headsets that narrated the stories of each room, highlighting the personal tastes and interior design influences from different eras. It is a museum dedicated to the history of furniture!
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum Inside the garden, there is a variety with ponds & fountains. |
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum Elaborate Fountains |
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum Elaborate Fountains |
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum |
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MY FAVORITE Water Fountain Paleis Het Loo National Museum |
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum |
The outdoor gardens and their elegant preservation are among the best I have ever seen, second only to the Emerald Palace in Bangkok, Thailand.
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum Sculptures with sensuality and rhythm in curves. |
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum A statue with a waterfall walking downstairs. |
Exotic statues and elegant water fountains are scattered throughout the gardens, arranged in a geometric grid. A variety of fall plants are still blooming, and we feel refreshed as we stroll through the cooler air with the filtered sunlight.
I feel like a million bucks exploring the palace, especially since it was just the price of admission! There is a pastry lunch spot at the back of the palace, but we packed our own breakfast leftovers and enjoyed being outside on this beautiful day.
It turns out that fall is the best time of year to visit the palace, as it appears that only local residents are out enjoying the grounds, rather than large groups of tourists.
Zutphen is a historic and active town in the Netherlands, full of medieval buildings that were fortunately not destroyed in the wars.
Zutphen is surrounded by water and bridges, featuring narrow streets where everyone rides bikes to get around. It is one of the oldest towns in the Netherlands, dating back 1,700 years. I absolutely love this place!
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum In the distance, a WORLD GLOBE water fountain featuring gold astrological signs. I think this would look nice in my garden too! A perfectionist pruner would never be finished in this garden! |
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum The statue is designed around a waterfall that pours down the stairs. |
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Paleis Het Loo National Museum The statue is designed around a waterfall along the stairs. |
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Restaurant on-site at Paleis Het Loo National Museum |
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Horse stables with historical information featuring great photos. Paleis Het Loo National Museum |
It turns out that fall is the best time of year to visit the palace, as it appears that only local residents are out enjoying the grounds, rather than large groups of tourists. It was a delightful experience to see the gardens with so few people around, allowing me to let my imagination wander back in time to when I might have strolled with royalty! Most of my pictures capture only a few visitors, but I can assure you that in the summer, it would be packed with people during a garden stroll.
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Zutphen Netherlands. The church. |
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Zutphen Netherlands. The church. |
Zutphen is a historic and active town in the Netherlands, full of medieval buildings that were fortunately not destroyed in the wars.
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Zutphen Netherlands Nothing like having a fresh cup of coffee & pastry to sit outside to people watch. |
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Zutphen Netherlands Nothing like having a fresh cup of coffee to sit outside and people-watch. |
Zutphen is surrounded by water and bridges, featuring narrow streets where everyone rides bikes to get around. It is one of the oldest towns in the Netherlands, dating back 1,700 years. I absolutely love this place!
For more information, check out the link here.
To sum up this part of our trip… we both fell in love with the Netherlands. In the future, we will make a point of venturing more of the Netherlands. People were generally upbeat and easy to talk to. Also, cleanliness is essential... everywhere… even the farms are neat and tidy!
Leaving the Netherlands was difficult for us. Although we could have stayed longer, we were on our way to visit a friend of Jim's who lived in Dahlem, Berlin.
We stayed at Larry’s apartment office suite in the Steglitz neighborhood for a week. From morning until night, we toured the many museums that Berlin has to offer.
We discovered a charming corner café where a friendly face greeted us each morning with coffee and pastries, which are my favorite breakfast.
Jimmy had a pasta dish with a creamy sauce, rich in delicious calories, while I indulged in a Cordon Bleu. It was breaded veal stuffed with cheese and ham, served with buttery potatoes and a salad on the side.
We were staying near the train station in Steglitz. The train was an efficient way to travel anywhere we wanted, and some passes even included museum entry, making them great value for promoting tourism in the city.
NOTE: When travelling Europe don’t wait too late to find places to eat unless you know which ones are open because you can go to bed hungry… unless you like lamb donairs every day.
We purchased a 3-day pass that offered access to over 60 museums for just 15 Euros (about $22.00) in 2007. Our primary focus was on art and history museums, but we also stumbled upon a few unexpected ones and decided to explore them.
In 1936, Hitler hosted the Olympics in Berlin. It is said that he abruptly left the games after witnessing the victories of Jesse Owens, a Black athlete from the USA, which insulted him since the German athletes were defeated. As a result, he chose to ignore the achievements of any non-German competitors.
We decided it was time to take a break from the city's noise and went for a walk in the inner-city park called the Tiergarten.
Inside the music museum, there was an open-designed space that showcased an expansive collection of well-preserved instruments, including pianos, horns, drums, and harps.
We are setting off in our rented Peugeot, leaving Berlin at noon. Our destination is Cerbère, a seaside town in France located just minutes from the Spanish border. We're excited to head towards the Mediterranean!
The highways in France may not be as well-maintained as those in Germany and the Netherlands, but they do have warning signs indicating upcoming speed cameras. This approach is much clearer than the cat-and-mouse game Canada often plays with speeding drivers.
We left Germany's impressive highways to face the seemingly endless toll booths on every major road in France. It felt like we hardly traveled a mile before another toll booth appeared out of nowhere.
We discover a small grocery store with specific hours and stock up on cheese, local sausage, tomatoes, fruit, and chocolates to enjoy in our room. In this little town, we find a couple of bakeries, but you have to arrive first thing in the morning, or you'll go hungry.
Banyuls-sur-Mer is a village near Cerbere and seems like a happier, people-friendly place with shops, winery stores, and other businesses open.
We were looking for the Aristide Maillol Museum, assuming it was in the village center. After parking the car, we couldn’t find the museum or any signs directing us to it.
As we finished our visit to the Aristide Maillol Museum, we drove back into town but decided to stop at a winery along the way. A dog lounging in the center of the road was slowing traffic to a near standstill. We parked the car and went in to inquire about their wines.
We spent just a few hours exploring Collioure, France, and noticed that this area is very popular with tourists. Many of the houses along the beaches are empty in the fall.
People are mingling happily as they decide which gourmet restaurant to dine at. We chose to dine at Dame Carcas to order two different courses of exquisite French cuisine.
Our restaurant is located at the tip of the only medieval road that leads in and out of the city. Traffic can only enter or exit during specific times throughout the day and evening. The road is one-way and barely wide enough for a small car to squeeze through the old buildings. Pedestrians often have to step into doorways to avoid getting in the way.
We highly recommend visiting the 12th-century village of Carcassonne, which still has a vibrant life force.
No kidding… I saw a blind woman riding her own bike while her partner directed her through the streets as she confidently held onto his arm.
Talk about trust!
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Cow wall painting in Zutphen |
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Zutphen Looks like a music building with relief details indicated around the blue door. |
I noticed that the key to a vibrant city is, first and foremost, art. Secondly, it's important to have educational institutions that attract young university students, as they bring a fresh sense of life and energy. Unfortunately, we only stayed for the day, and I was disappointed that my camera batteries drained early during our trip.
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Cobble Stone Streets of Zutphen, Netherlands |
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Zutphen, Netherlands SING A LONG...how much is that doggy in the window! BARK BARK The one with the waggily tail, BARK BARK! |
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Zutphen, Netherlands Church door. |
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Zutphen DOOR...Iron...Stone... |
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Metal Sculpture Horse Hitch in Zutphen |
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The streets in Zutphen. |
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The streets in Zutphen. |
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| JOY SPOT |
A perfectionist's dream! Most people in the Netherlands could speak English very well and would skip right into speaking English if we had that glazed-over look, trying to grasp certain words!
Germany:
Berlin, Dahlem, Steglitz
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A piece of the Berlin Wall. |
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This is our leased Peugeot. Visiting Larry at his apartment in Dahlem, Berlin. |
Leaving the Netherlands was difficult for us. Although we could have stayed longer, we were on our way to visit a friend of Jim's who lived in Dahlem, Berlin.
The drive from Ede to Larry's place in Berlin was long, but we enjoyed driving on the Autobahn and the excellent highways in both Germany and the Netherlands.
During our time in Europe, we observed that drivers generally exhibited better behavior than drivers in Canada and showed noticeable confidence. Jim found their highway driving etiquette to be exceptional. For instance, after passing a slower vehicle in the inside lane, it is customary to move back into the right lane to let faster drivers, such as those in a Mercedes or BMW, zip by without hesitation.
Watching these high-performance cars race past us made us feel as though we were driving in reverse. This environment demands a high level of attention, as accidents can happen at such high speeds, often due to poor driving habits.
We also noticed that the German autobahns are bordered by substantial embossed, decorative concrete walls and large plexiglass panels. These features serve as sound barriers while allowing us to enjoy views of the picturesque ancient towns nearby.
Rest stops are conveniently located along the autobahns, where travelers can take a break. There are small, simple, and inexpensive highway hotels for those who wish to rest, as well as designated parking areas where drivers can sleep in their cars. The rest areas also offer various restaurants and franchises where travelers can purchase food and gas, eliminating the need to venture into nearby towns, many of which are not open 24/7.
Although we didn't have proper maps or a GPS, we discovered that every major highway encircles cities in a large loop, connecting to smaller roads that lead into the inner city. This system of travel seamlessly integrates various modes, making for an efficient experience whether traveling by car, bus, or train.
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Steglitz Neighborhood. |
We stayed at Larry’s apartment office suite in the Steglitz neighborhood for a week. From morning until night, we toured the many museums that Berlin has to offer.
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We found this corner café in Steglitz, our go-to spot every morning for breakfast and friendly service! |
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Our morning breakfast started here with freshly made coffee and various pastries! |
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Fresh coffee and fruit-filled pastry. Our great European Breakfast starts the day! |
We discovered a charming corner café where a friendly face greeted us each morning with coffee and pastries, which are my favorite breakfast. It's common in European breakfasts to enjoy fruit-filled pastries and cheeses, so we treated ourselves every morning without breaking tradition!
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Late-night restaurant in Steglitz, Berlin |
The only late-night restaurant in Steglitz is run by Persian brothers who served us the most excellent food at great prices. We felt very welcome here, and the fellows chatted us up, making us linger longer before walking back to our office space with sleeping mats.
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Best Food in Steglitz! Loved the wall murals too! |
Jimmy had a pasta dish with a creamy sauce, rich in delicious calories, while I indulged in a Cordon Bleu. It was breaded veal stuffed with cheese and ham, served with buttery potatoes and a salad on the side. I couldn't believe I finished the whole meal; I was apparently very hungry after a long day of walking and visiting museums! Later, the fellow in the picture above came over to chat with us and brought us two complimentary shots of sweet liquor.
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Collectible memories of this era featuring FUNKY shoe display in Steglitz shop window! |
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Steglitz historical apartments are beautifully restored & maintained. |
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The Steglitz neighborhood and its historic apartments are well-maintained. |
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Steglitz historical apartments. |
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The historic apartments in Steglitz are beautifully restored and well-maintained. |
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The train bridge and bus center connect to anywhere in Berlin. Steglitz is served by the Berlin S-Bahn line S1 at the stations Feuerbachstraße and Rathaus Steglitz as well as by the S25 at Südende. U-Bahn connection to the inner city is provided by the U9 line with the stations Walther-Schreiber-Platz, Schloßstraße, and Rathaus Steglitz. |
For a comprehensive overview of the rules, various ticket prices, and what they include for different types of travel and tours, check out the Transit & Tour information for Berlin HERE.
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Steglitz doorways. |
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Steglitz doorways. |
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Elaborate building details are featured on many of the older apartment buildings in Steglitz |
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Steglitz apartment building details. |
While walking around Steglitz, we noticed that it is a busy neighborhood with limited parking options and narrow side streets that can be challenging to navigate, even for the smallest cars.
We are grateful to have leased a small vehicle, but found that paid parking is quite expensive. As a result, we decided it was best to use public transit, which gave us the freedom to explore without needing to return to the car and allowed us to tour at a pace we enjoyed in Berlin.
The train stations offer great food options, including freshly baked sourdough breads filled with German sausages, cheese, and fresh vegetables. It's a welcome change from the limp, thin sandwiches wrapped in plastic that are often made a week in advance back home!
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Sculpture is noticed throughout Berlin. |
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While walking around a common woods area in a regular neighborhood, We found art sculptures displayed and even NUDES. |
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Nudity in sculpture does not seem to be an issue in Berlin, which I find refreshing, especially after experiencing how North America perceives the body as pornographic, leading to its absence in public spaces. |
Schnitzel is a food I’ve always wanted to indulge in, as it reminds me of my childhood in Europe. My father had just passed away shortly before our trip, so I felt as though I was traveling with him in spirit, recalling the time we lived in Germany when we were all much younger. In Europe, schnitzel is as common in restaurants as burgers are in North America.
I found a restaurant on Unter den Linden that served veal schnitzel with lightly coated breadcrumbs, accompanied by lemon slices—of course! Schnitzel is somewhat similar to cordon bleu but simpler, as it doesn't have stuffing. It was served with my favorite thinly sliced potatoes, seasoned with herbs and cooked in a buttery pan, topped with small pieces of ham, along with a side salad and a blonde beer. I devoured the entire plate and was ready for some more walking afterward!
NOTE: When travelling Europe don’t wait too late to find places to eat unless you know which ones are open because you can go to bed hungry… unless you like lamb donairs every day.Once we settled into our apartment, we took out the list of museums we had researched before arriving in Berlin. While Paris is known for being expensive, Berlin offers excellent value for your money, along with a wider variety of museums to explore. There are several ticket options available, depending on how many days you plan to spend visiting museums, and some even include public transportation.
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Brohan or spelled Broehan Museum ENTRANCE featuring art nouveau, art deco, and functionalism. Charlottenburg Castle area |
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| Charlottenburg INSIDE the Broehan Museum featuring Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and functionalism. |
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Charlottenburg INSIDE the Broehan Museum featuring Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and functionalism. |
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Charlottenburg Glass Chandelier inside the INSIDE the Broehan Museum featuring Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and functionalism. |
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Delicate woven design in furniture fabrics. INSIDE the Broehan Museum |
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INSIDE the Broehan Museum |
We stumbled upon the Brohan Museum while exploring the Charlottenburg area of Berlin. Although it was not easily visible, we were glad we decided to venture inside.
The museum features a wonderful selection of historical furniture, art, and even jewelry. I discovered several German women artists on display, and it was saddening to learn that they died during World War II.
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Berlin`s Museum Island under construction in 2007 |
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Berlin`s Museum Island under construction in 2007 |
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Altes Museum ENTRANCE under construction 2007 |
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Altes Museum ENTRANCE under construction 2007 with ancient sculptures, paintings, and tapestry in a neo-classical style of building. |
We had bought one of the 2 museum passes offered: the Berlin Welcome Card or the Museumspass.
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Entering the Altes Museum Berlin Museum Island |
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Neo-Classical interior in the Altes Museum. |
Karl Friedrich Schinkel designed the Altes Museum in 1830, a classicist structure featuring a rotunda, dome, and portico. As Prussia's first public museum, it has undergone extensive renovations.
Today, the building houses the city’s main collection of ancient art and sculptures, as well as a gold treasury.
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Neo-Classical interior in the Altes Museum. |
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Neo-Classical interior details in the Altes Museum. |
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Sculpture Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Busts, Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Busts, Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Busts, Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Busts, Altes Museum, Berlin |
As we entered the museum, we walked through several glamorous neoclassical foyers, leading us to rooms filled with impeccable ancient artifacts, all enhanced by the golden glow of specialized lighting.
Since flash photography was not allowed, it was challenging for me to take photos, but I managed to capture the beauty of the sculptures by playing with the available light. Breathtaking!
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Sculpture Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Busts, Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Sculpture Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Rooms filled with paintings...must go see! Altes Museum |
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Paintings in the Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Paintings in the Altes Museum, Berlin |
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Paintings in the Altes Museum, Berlin |
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I LOVED this hilarious old painting! Altes Museum, Berlin |
I recently became a fan of religious art and am captivated by the beauty created with limited art supplies, often in cold, drafty rooms illuminated only by natural light and candles.
The ancient knowledge of the human figure, the golden ratio, and divine proportions offers geometric solutions not only for architecture but also for the design of paintings and sculptures. This knowledge helps create natural shapes and a sense of depth in space.
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Altes Museum |
found some of the most incredible museums we have ever visited. It seems that Berlin has a museum for nearly every topic imaginable! Although we could only see a limited number this time, we definitely plan to return to Berlin to discover new favorites.
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Dahlem has planned parks throughout the neighborhood. |
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Older mansions in Dahlem have been made into separate apartments, but some are still a house for one family. |
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Modern apartments in Dahlem. |
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Dahlem mansions. |
Larry, our Berlin friend, tells us that in his neighborhood, Dahlem, mansions are full of libraries and intellectuals who work for history museums.
On two different days, we explored our neighborhood and discovered two museums. The first was the Botanisches Museum in Dahlem, which is rich in plant history dating back to the beginning of time. This museum houses cells from every living plant organism, past and present.
On two different days, we explored our neighborhood and discovered two museums. The first was the Botanisches Museum in Dahlem, which is rich in plant history dating back to the beginning of time. This museum houses cells from every living plant organism, past and present.
The artistic displays and preserved plants aim to educate visitors about the plants we consume, use for construction, and rely on for medicine. We enjoyed a relaxing stroll while learning about the wonders of Mother Nature. In the gardens, we noticed that the new glass atrium was under construction, but the older section featured a fascinating selection of ancient cactus plants and tropical orchids.
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Sign in window, Berlin |
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Walking around Dahlem, Berlin |
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Narrow roads and cobblestone streets in Dahlem, Berlin. |
On another day of exploring the Dahlem neighborhood, I visited the Asian Art Museum. The building features a modern architectural design and houses a rich collection highlighting the history of ancient civilizations from around the world, including artifacts from Canada's Eskimos.
The exhibits include pottery, jewelry, cave paintings, carvings, and original ancient ships. The lighting quality and the expertise involved in archival and conservation work are outstanding throughout the museum's collections.
While many of the museum's signs are not in English, you can rent a listening device that explains the objects on display. I recommend planning a whole day for your visit.
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| Zum Olympia Stadion |
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Berlin's Olympic Stadium 1936 |
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| Berlin's Olympic Stadium 1936 |
In 1936, Hitler hosted the Olympics in Berlin. It is said that he abruptly left the games after witnessing the victories of Jesse Owens, a Black athlete from the USA, which insulted him since the German athletes were defeated. As a result, he chose to ignore the achievements of any non-German competitors. Today, there are plaques honoring the remarkable athletes who won medals at the 1936 Olympics.
Additionally, behind the Olympic stadium stands a tower commemorating the 1916 Olympics, which were supposed to take place in Berlin but were canceled due to WWI.
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Plaques to honor the 1936 Olympics winners. |
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1916 Berlin Olympic Stadium, behind the 1936 Stadium was canceled due to World War I |
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Modern Berlin is fantastic with its architecture and attention to detail. The siding is made from plastic and clay, creating a long-lasting, textured, and colorful style for many buildings. |
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Modern Berlin and its architecture and attention to detail. Ponds are part of the planning. |
Berlin's modern architecture features complex designs that incorporate water conservation and utilize building materials such as recycled plastic and clay for siding.
This approach aligns with the principles of the GREEN movement, contributing to the city's creative revitalization. There are various styles and intriguing uses of siding surfaces, roofing designs, and the integration of sculptures within the landscapes.
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Berlin is rebuilding a magnificent city! |
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East Berlin is being rebuilt, and we can see buildings going up in every direction. |
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Construction noise is everywhere in the city. |
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New Berlin City Skyline |
We walked around with our heads held high, gazing at the most magnificent cityscape we had ever seen. Berlin is not receiving any funding from Germany for rebuilding, so it is taking serious steps to generate revenue and attract investment to support its grand architecture and green spaces.
Real estate investment could be very lucrative right now, as the city is expected to restore its former status as one of the world's most magnificent centers of art and culture within a few years.
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Berlin's Cathedral Church, called the Berliner Dom |
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Berlin's Cathedral Church, called the Berliner Dom |
The downtown areas are currently under construction, but we are pleased to see Berlin's remarkable vision in action, as it uses design, history, and innovation to create an incredible experience at every turn.
We will definitely include Berlin in our future travel plans.
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Original design encasing the outside of the building with glass. |
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Geometric use of siding for a modern design. |
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Hotel Berlin with wall murals. |
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Modern Architecture in Berlin |
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Integration with ponds of water is part of Berlin's vision for naturally cooling the city and buildings. |
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| Kulturforum Berlin is an area for culture And the yellow building is the Chamber Music Hall. |
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Kulturforum Berlin is an area for culture And this building is Berlin's Library. |
As we walk through Berlin, we see a fascinating blend of modern architecture and ancient buildings that together transform this remarkable city.
Much of Berlin was destroyed during the war, and some older structures still bear the scars of devastation, evident in the blackened soot from fires and bomb blasts.
Additionally, Berlin's landscape poses challenges; it is essentially a giant swamp, and whenever the ground is excavated, it quickly fills with water.
The remnants of World War II, including discarded weapons and unexploded bombs, were also found throughout the area, requiring specialists to safely collect these hazardous materials before any construction could take place.
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Green lawn indicates the NO MANS LAND of the separation between East and West Berlin. |
The green space visible in the picture above marks the area known as 'no man's land,' a reminder of the historical division between East and West Berlin due to the Wall.
The U.S. Embassy obstructs a major city road that runs in front of the building, with armed U.S. soldiers patrolling the perimeter. No one is allowed to approach the embassy or take photographs. It's quite unusual to see Berlin's traffic disrupted and complicated by barricades at the U.S. Embassy—no other embassies seem to do this. Why is that?
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The SONY center. |
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The SONY center with a LEGO giraffe sculpture lurking out front. |
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Sculpture throughout Berlin and water features in quaint cityscapes. |
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Sculpture throughout Berlin and water features in the cityscapes. |
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Sculpture throughout Berlin and water features in the cityscapes. |
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Tiergarten, meaning animal garden, is in central West Berlin. |
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Take a break and walk through the Tiergarten. |
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Tiergarten Bridge |
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| Stunning views of ponds and trees in the Tiergarten. |
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| JOY SPOT |
It offered a peaceful escape, and we found it provided plenty of beautiful garden views and great opportunities for photographs.
After leaving the Tiergarten, we came across the Musikinstrumenten-Museum, which is on our list of free museums included with our pass.
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
Musicians do perform here using some of the old instruments and musical scores of the past. We first noticed the building’s amazing architecture and use of textured siding.
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum Inside the main floor of the museum. |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum Inside view from the second floor. There are times scheduled for small concerts, but not today. |
Inside the music museum, there was an open-designed space that showcased an expansive collection of well-preserved instruments, including pianos, horns, drums, and harps.
It was amazing to see these instruments and to wonder how they would sound when played. I was captivated by the various styles, elaborate paintings, and attention to detail.
It would be amazing if they had headphones to adjust the volume of each instrument and hear it play. Just saying, that would be really cool.
We visited the Bauhaus Museum, which was open to the public. Although the museum was quite small and had limited displays, it was still interesting.
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum Looks like a face to me. |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum This organ still gets played. |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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One side of the Musikinstrumenten-Museum had a glass wall with stairs that go up to the second balcony level. |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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| Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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| Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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| A two-sided piano with an oil painting scene on the inside cover! Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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| Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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| Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
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Wurlitzer! Musikumstrumenten-Museum |
It would be amazing if they had headphones to adjust the volume of each instrument and hear it play. Just saying, that would be really cool.
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Bauhaus, Berlin |
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Bauhaus, Berlin |
We visited the Bauhaus Museum, which was open to the public. Although the museum was quite small and had limited displays, it was still interesting.
There is a rich history surrounding the Bauhaus, particularly how the war disrupted this modern creative institution, which the Nazis deemed as "degenerate art."
Those involved with the Bauhaus were at risk of being sent to concentration camps. I studied some of the Bauhaus design philosophies during my education as an interior designer.
The art museums in Berlin deeply fulfilled our creative spirits, often moving us to tears as we admired the masterpieces. Berlin is a remarkable city.
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| JOY SPOT |
FRANCE:
Cerbère, Collioure, Banyuls-sur-mer,
Carcassonne, Berry, Toulouse, Orléans
We are setting off in our rented Peugeot, leaving Berlin at noon. Our destination is Cerbère, a seaside town in France located just minutes from the Spanish border. We're excited to head towards the Mediterranean!
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FRANCE, Cerbere on the Mediterranean Sea |
The highways in France may not be as well-maintained as those in Germany and the Netherlands, but they do have warning signs indicating upcoming speed cameras. This approach is much clearer than the cat-and-mouse game Canada often plays with speeding drivers.
We left Germany's impressive highways to face the seemingly endless toll booths on every major road in France. It felt like we hardly traveled a mile before another toll booth appeared out of nowhere. Frustrated with the constant tolls, Jim decided it would be better to drive through the countryside. However, this choice quickly turned into an unpleasant experience as evening descended.
We followed a small car, hoping to use it as a guide through the dark country roads. We followed it for at least an hour, and the driver must have thought we were tailing him. Finally, he turned off to his street and left us behind. That’s when we said, “To hell with it!” and decided to pay the damn highway toll booths instead.
The countryside appeared very dry and desolate, with plain, box-like houses in poor condition. For some reason, the French tend to place concrete curbs in the middle of their already narrow roads. This means that any slight error in judgment can result in your wheels hitting the curb—perhaps it's a method intended to deter drunk driving?
We decided to abandon the French country roads and return to the toll highways, which we found to be worth the fare. One positive aspect of traveling in Europe is that you can usually find a roadside park to pull over and take a nap in the middle of the night.
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Cerbere and the Mediterranean |
The morning light awakened us as we continued our drive to Cerbère, France. Since it’s not tourist season in Europe, we are not concerned about making reservations.
We navigated the winding roads along the Mediterranean coastal cliffs, a popular route for motorcycle enthusiasts seeking to speed on their “rice rockets.”
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Cerbere, Hotel La Vigie, the building hanging over the cliff. |
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Cerbere, The Hotel La Vigie ENTER the door on the street edge. |
We arrived in the morning and drove to the edge of Cerbère, where we noticed the imposing Hotel La Vigie looming over the cliff. This 1930s hotel has certainly seen better days, but some of the family's artwork still hangs precariously on the walls.
We had to knock on the door from the street side to get someone to answer and let us in. Once inside, we received a key code and negotiated a cash deal with the French proprietor, François, who had already started drinking while reading his newspaper.
A gypsy woman was cleaning the rooms, and her suspicious manner was quite unnerving. She asked us if we wanted breakfast in the morning, but we soon discovered that it was a rip-off. We only tried it once and decided to find somewhere else to eat in the village. Following a local's lead, we found a lovely café and pastry shop.
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Fabulous view from our hotel room. |
There’s not much happening here in Cerbere, but it is a popular destination for scuba divers. Every morning, boats are filled with divers who set out for the day.
Since we’re not in the holiday season, we’ve found that most restaurants are closed, so we are constantly on the lookout for food.
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Cat off to work! |
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| Curvaceous streets of Cerbere, France |
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Finding the local bakery is key to our survival. Arrive early as they sell out fast! |
We discover a small grocery store with specific hours and stock up on cheese, local sausage, tomatoes, fruit, and chocolates to enjoy in our room. In this little town, we find a couple of bakeries, but you have to arrive first thing in the morning, or you'll go hungry. We stroll along the hilly seaside, which is very quiet, except for the continuous sound of trains, passing motorbikes, and a few cats.
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Abandoned and gutted-out buildings are throughout Cerbere's landscapes. |
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At one time, this mansion would have been a beauty. WHY is this town in such a state? |
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Used to be a Hotel for the Railway traffic But now it is only used in one area for a cinema. |
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Funky-looking abandoned Railway Hotel. |
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Funky-looking abandoned Railway Hotel in Cerbere. The trains still run through the town connecting Spain with France. |
Some buildings in town are well-maintained, while many others are in disrepair. It seems that Cerbere was once a lively party town in the 1930s, thriving with wealth and activity. However, that time has long passed, and now only a few villagers live here year-round, and they don’t appear to be very friendly.
There are a few holiday homes that have recently been built on the hills in Cerbere, but none of the residents are around in October.
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Cerbere France. Some places are being kept up and have fresh paint. |
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The main road is an unintended race track for ROCKET motorcycles. Cerbere France |
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Cerbere, France, hillside houses. |
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Cerbere, France, hillside houses. |
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One would stay in shape living in Cerbere with the hillside roads and stairways to the TOP! |
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The main highway through Cerebere is where divers load onto boats. |
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An Art Nouveau building is still being used in Cerbere. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Art_Nouveau |
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4 kilometers to the Spanish Border from Cerbere, France |
There are a few holiday homes that have recently been built on the hills in Cerbere, but none of the residents are around in October.
I believe this is the perfect place for a writer or an artist to find solitude and create.
We have decided to stay in Cerbere because it is centrally located to several historical castles, wineries, and my new favorite sculptor, Aristide Maillol.
Additionally, we plan to take a day trip to Spain to visit the Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí’s museum in Figueres, about an hour’s scenic drive away.
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| Cacti growing wild around the Banyuls-sur-Mer area. |
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Banyuls-sur-Mer winery shops are closed. |
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Banyuls-sur-Mer winery shop open for BIZ. |
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The Banyuls-sur-Mer winery shop is closed. |
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Stairways along the cliffs for growing wines, etc. |
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Along the way...Banyuls-sur-Mer |
Banyuls-sur-Mer is a village near Cerbere and seems like a happier, people-friendly place with shops, winery stores, and other businesses open.
We decided to ask a local for directions, then got back into the car to navigate the narrow country roads deep within the Roume Valley. The hillsides, lined with olive groves and vineyards, eventually led us to a small parking space by the side of the narrow road.
It wasn't easy to find, but it was definitely worth the discovery!
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A narrow road into the countryside takes us to a small but fantastic Sculpture Museum of Aristide Maillol in Banyuls-sur-Mer |
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Quiet and definitely no tour buses at the Musee Maillol in Banyuls-sur-Mer |
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We park up on the road, then there is a lovely 50-meter walk through the Banyuls-sur-Mer countryside to get to the Musee Maillol. |
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We arrive at the Musee Maillol, where one of his nude sculptures It is a grave headstone for where Aristide Maillol is buried. |
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Aristide Maillol lived here part-time and used this building as his studio. MORE ABOUT Aristide Maillol |
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I love Aristide Maillol's curvaceous nudes, and one of his models is responsible for raising interest in bringing the museum to life. |
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Aristide Maillol's curvaceous nudes. |
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Aristide Maillol's curvaceous nudes. |
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Minaz and the curvaceous nudes of Aristide Maillol. |
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Walking along the path to the Aristide Maillol Museum. |
We entered the museum through the back and enjoyed a picturesque walk along a natural path. We saw charming French homes nestled on the hillside, surrounded by trees and grapevines.
We arrived at the gate, which welcomed us to the restored building. It was Maillol's final wish to be buried here, where some of his sculptures are displayed.
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Hand-painted sign in script tells us we have arrived! |
This is the place where Maillol loved to spend his time and where he was born, even though he traveled and lived elsewhere. Maillol's model, Dina Vierny, worked tirelessly to garner support from the French government to establish this location as a permanent museum dedicated to Maillol.
What a delightful place for an intimate viewing of Aristide Maillol's works! We were fortunate to be the only visitors there, apart from the friendly museum attendants.
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| JOY SPOT |
The Musée Maillol is located in the Vallée de la Roume and offers a unique experience worth the trip for anyone within driving distance.
As we finished our visit to the Aristide Maillol Museum, we drove back into town but decided to stop at a winery along the way. A dog lounging in the center of the road was slowing traffic to a near standstill. We parked the car and went in to inquire about their wines.
The winery is a family-run establishment, and the brothers there speak English. They were more than willing to pause their work to discuss wines, life, and art with us. Interestingly, we learned that one of the individuals we spoke with at the Maillol Museum lives at the Domaine Berta-Maillol Winery and is related to the artist Aristide Maillol.
The wines we tasted were excellent, featuring red and white varieties, as well as some fantastic dessert wines in both styles. We ended up buying six bottles to take home and enjoy. The brothers even allowed us to sample everything they had available for tasting.
We found out that they have a store in town where we can make additional purchases, and we realized that this winery serves as both their home and production facility. It was an experience filled with great wine and wonderful people.
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Beaches of Collioure, France Not too many tourists at this time of year. |
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An old fort in Collioure, France, is in the process of being rebuilt and is now a park to walk through, with landscapes & ocean views. |
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Next time, let's stay in this area longer and take the opportunity to learn more about Collioure's history.
Having the freedom of a car allows us to spontaneously visit the 12th-century city of Carcassonne, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This medieval walled city remains vibrant and relies on tourism to stay lively. It is also recognized as a national monument in France.
We’re fortunate to find free street parking and then walk up the hill to the medieval castle, which casts a striking silhouette against the setting sun.
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Carcassonne carousel ride at the front before heading into the walled 12th-century village. |
We are greeted with a carousel ride at the entrance and a very old castle wall surrounding the hillside.
We walked around the walled city before venturing into the bustling core of urban life. As we explored, we stumbled upon an old entrance at the back of the city, where we discovered a hidden oasis of exquisite gourmet French restaurants opening for the evening dinner service.
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Entrance into the center of the walled-in City of Carcassonne. |
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Outside the walled city of Carcassonne. |
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The walled city of Carcassonne. |
We walked around the walled city before venturing into the bustling core of urban life. As we explored, we stumbled upon an old entrance at the back of the city, where we discovered a hidden oasis of exquisite gourmet French restaurants opening for the evening dinner service.
The menus featured 4- to 5-course options, and the prices, along with detailed descriptions of each course, were clearly displayed on rustic wooden signs.
While strolling around the medieval fortress city of Carcassonne, you'll find plenty of shops filled with beautiful home décor items, high-quality fashion, and artisan jewelry, all tastefully displayed in the store windows.
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12th-century buildings are still being lived in today. |
While strolling around the medieval fortress city of Carcassonne, you'll find plenty of shops filled with beautiful home décor items, high-quality fashion, and artisan jewelry, all tastefully displayed in the store windows.
There are also several small, historic hotels where you can stay within the walled city. It’s a fantastic place that’s both romantic and enjoyable for visitors of all ages.
Personally, I found the atmosphere inside the walls a bit too musty to stay there, but I definitely recommend visiting and having dinner in this amazing historical location.
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Well-fed cats live within the 12th-century walled In the city of Carcassonne. |
There are many friendly cats roaming around, helping to keep the mouse population under control. These cats are quite sociable and enjoy being petted by visitors. The atmosphere is vibrant and lively, filled mostly with tourists, although there are a few locals who live and work in the area. We chatted with some of them, and they mentioned that they consider this place a pilgrimage, returning every time they visit Europe.
As the sun sets, the old city takes on a warm, inviting ambiance, illuminated by the soft glow of candlelight.
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Inside the 12th-century walled In the city of Carcassonne, there are many shops, restaurants, and hotels. |
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Inside the 12th-century walled In the city of Carcassonne, there are many shops, restaurants, and hotels. |
People are mingling happily as they decide which gourmet restaurant to dine at. We chose to dine at Dame Carcas to order two different courses of exquisite French cuisine. |
Gourmet restaurants are very small and feature their small menus outside so you can read whether or not to stay or move on to another restaurant. |
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Shops are closed in the evening. Fabulous items for sale are on display through the window. |
Our restaurant is located at the tip of the only medieval road that leads in and out of the city. Traffic can only enter or exit during specific times throughout the day and evening. The road is one-way and barely wide enough for a small car to squeeze through the old buildings. Pedestrians often have to step into doorways to avoid getting in the way.
There is a timed traffic light for the one-way exchange, but not everyone waits for the light to change. Many drivers take the risk of proceeding on their green light, and if they encounter oncoming traffic, they have to back all the way up the road. It can be quite entertaining to watch!
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| JOY SPOT |
We know there is more to see & experience here, but we have only one evening to explore. We decided to head off the next day to Spain for a day trip to visit the Salvador Dali Art Museum.
We planned a day trip to Spain, going to Figueres to get up close to the master surrealist painter Salvador Dalí. I was soooo looking forward to seeing Salvador Dali’s art.
We arrived in Figueres, Spain, early in the morning, just as the Salvador Dalí Museum opened on a Tuesday.
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Salvador Dali Art Museum |
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Salvador Dali Art Museum in Figueres, Spain |
We arrived in Figueres, Spain, early in the morning, just as the Salvador Dalí Museum opened on a Tuesday.
We thought that being early in the off-season and visiting on a Tuesday might mean we would have the museum mostly to ourselves, as we had at other art museums across Europe.
BUT, oh no! We saw literally acres of buses unloading crowds of frantic people, all piling into unruly lines. Since we were at the front of the line, we had only moments of peace in the museum before chaos broke out. It turned into standing room only.
Jim went one way, and I went the other. The cameras were flashing everywhere, even though the sign said not to use flash. Young people were all over the artwork, touching it and climbing on it. The guards had their hands full trying to get these visitors to respect the art.
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Entering the first area of the Dali Museum. This is just starting to fill up with too many people. |
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Dali Museum stairway up to the second floor That is already crammed with people. |
Jim went one way, and I went the other. The cameras were flashing everywhere, even though the sign said not to use flash. Young people were all over the artwork, touching it and climbing on it. The guards had their hands full trying to get these visitors to respect the art.
Unfortunately, due to this disrespect and misbehavior, the artwork and displays suffered. The museum looked dirty and cobwebbed, clearly in need of some freshening up, and it felt overwhelming with so many people roaming through.
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Dali created this museum when he was alive. Each room features his art and some of his favorite artists. |
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I LOVE what Dali did for this place and would enjoy it with more restraints on the volume of people dumped off at its doorstep. None of those people seemed to care about the art or being in the museum. |
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https://www.salvador-dali.org/en/museums/dali-theatre-museum-in-figueres/ |
Despite all the negatives we experienced with how the board of members and the city want to grab the money, the collection of Dali artworks is worth seeing, and the layout of the displays is very fun to explore when children and people are not crawling all over them.
I heard years later that many people complained, and hopefully things have changed for this wonderful Dali Museum.
The gift shops had a nice selection of fun stuff to buy and a wide range of prices, too. There is also a Dali jewelry museum somewhere nearby, but we were frankly just too annoyed to endure another rude crowd, so we left for our cliff hotel in Cerbere.
The gift shops had a nice selection of fun stuff to buy and a wide range of prices, too. There is also a Dali jewelry museum somewhere nearby, but we were frankly just too annoyed to endure another rude crowd, so we left for our cliff hotel in Cerbere.
Overall, this was the biggest disappointment of our trip.
Every great Château needs to have at
least one royal cat. The museum gal opened up one of the doors to toss out the Chateau Cat, who was, of course, indignant about being awakened so early from his warm window nap, no doubt.
We enter the main doorway and get the
headsets for the 9.00 Euro ticket price to tell us in English the history
of Château Valencay. There once was a 12th-century castle on this location, but it was abandoned and run down.
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Spain and cacti flowers. |
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Cactus plants grow like weeds in Spain... Beautiful despite the prickles. |
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Ebre? Ebro, Spain, not sure exactly where we are. |
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Narrow dark pathways throughout this village in Spain. |
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Roads through the Spanish town are narrow. |
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When this place was originally built, it was for horses And today, the drivers ZIP through the maze of streets. |
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SPAIN Narrow roads, cobblestone paths to the side for pedestrians to keep their toes out of the way! |
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Spain |
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Spain Sharp corners for drivers! |
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Stop off at the Mediterranean seaside. Dali was inspired to paint these rocks and landscapes. |
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Dali's inspirations. |
Driving back along Spain’s Mediterranean coast, we pulled into one of the small towns looking for a place to eat and enjoy a cold beer. Everything seemed deserted, with just a few locals wandering about.
We stopped somewhere along the way and finally found a little fast-food joint that was open, run by a friendly Spanish woman who cooked up some delicious tapas for us, served with a cold, crisp Spanish beer.
As we continued our drive along the highway back to France, we noticed countless European timeshare holiday homes, all eerily boarded up and deserted for miles. We later learned that the Spanish government had discovered a loophole that allowed them to claim ownership of these homes, leaving the original owners uncompensated. This issue was tied to fraud and scams involving building permits.
It was time to leave Cerbère and our CLIFF hotel and start driving back towards Paris, where our flight was scheduled to depart and where we would drop off the leased Peugeot right inside the airport perimeter.
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Chateau de Valency in Berry, France |
We decided to explore more castles in the countryside of the Berry province. We stayed in a small hotel where a town meeting was taking place in the pub when we first arrived. Our room was very cold, but it was clean, although nothing fancy; we were just staying for the night.
We asked if any food stores or restaurants were open, but unfortunately, we struck out for dinner. At least we had gotten into the habit of picking up fresh bread, canned snacks, cheese, and sausage, along with some chocolate for dessert. We enjoyed a bottle of French table wine, sipping it from bathroom cups as we looked out over the beautiful French countryside. Ah, the good life!
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Chateau de Valencay |
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Every morning, just before opening the Chateau de Valencay to the public, someone rakes the' record-like' grooves into the fine stone entrance way. We were the first to arrive and were greeted by the Castle Kitty! |
We get up early and head over to see the Château de Valençay. It’s not tourist season, so we were the first people to enter the groomed grounds of this fine Chateau.
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Castle Kitty says FOLLOW ME...to take us, peeps, around the kitty hood! |
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Castle Kitty at the far left wants to take us down this pathway. The Peacock thinks differently. |
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Whose going to give in? Feather or FUR? Castle Kitty's ears are BACK, focused & walking forward while the peacock is ready to NIP! |
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Managed to escape the wrath of Peacock's vengeance. Time to lay one's furry head in the sunlight and convince the humans to pet and fawn over such a fine feline! |
Every great Château needs to have at
least one royal cat. The museum gal opened up one of the doors to toss out the Chateau Cat, who was, of course, indignant about being awakened so early from his warm window nap, no doubt. He landed on his feet, gave his fine fur a shake, and spotted us
across the gardens to give us a ROYAL PURRRR-FECT greeting
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Castle Kitty loves my cashmere wrap. Only the finest for this puss! |
I took many pictures of this wonderful royal cat, who was very affectionate and seemed to take great delight in showing us around the outdoor grounds. The peacocks, however, were not as fond of the castle kitty.
Despite their hissing, he bravely walked cautiously by them, holding his head high.
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The Chateau de Valency is getting a new facelift. Excellent that there is money going towards preserving the history, and we are going to enjoy our visit inside after Castle Kitty is done with us peasants! |
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Can you imagine cleaning these windows? |
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Entrance inside Chateau de Valencay. |
In 1540, Jacques d'Estampes had it demolished to replace it with Chateau Valencay, which was built in stages and not completed until the 18th century. Sold to many famous owners, such as
Scottish banker John Law in 1719 and Napoleon in 1809.
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Follow through and enter the gardens at the Chateau de Valencay. |
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Morning fog falls over the landscape View of the Chateau de Valencay. |
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Chateau de Valencay garden and view. |
The landscape is well-kept, showcasing beautiful views of vast green fields and sculptures.
At the back of the wooded area, there is a playground for kids, as well as a fun maze where you have to answer history questions to unlock the next door.
However, you might end up like us and follow the peacocks, only to be led to a dead end. One peacock even jumped up and over the fence, seemingly laughing and calling us “stupid tourists!”
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Old animal barns still in use at the Chateau de Valencay. |
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Small farm animals still live at the Chateau de Valency. |
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The town is outside the walls of Chateau de Valencay. |
We were left to walk through the landscapes as if we owned the place. In the woods, we find the chateau’s farm animals and stroll among Classic French gardens.
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The entrance to the KITCHEN of Chateau Valencay. |
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Would have been a busy kitchen. There is a dumbwaiter lift for the food delivered HOT to the upper dining rooms. |
Really enjoyed going into the basement to
view the kitchen and the wine cellars. We could imagine this area being very busy, and had read that the food was plentiful and gourmet. Loved how the light shone through the windows, gleaming off the copper pots.
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How beautiful can a copper pot be! |
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A well-stocked kitchen has LOTS of pots! |
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Ovens and a butter churning. |
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The WINE Cellar still has some bottles available for sampling! |
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The kitchen at the Chateau de Valencay |
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Wine cellar at the Chateau Valencay. |
What a beautiful place, showcasing the fashion of its time through exquisite interior décor, complete with stunning furniture and artwork. There is so much to see and learn, and visiting in the fall means you won't have to deal with crowds getting in the way of your experience.
They also have a large gift shop offering wines, foods, and various trinkets for purchase.
After our tour, we will leave for Toulouse, France, where we will stay for a few days.
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View from our Kriad Hotel window.
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We're heading to another French city, Toulouse, and are deciding where to stay as we drive.
We're looking for budget hotels in the city center and found the mid-range Kyriad Hotel, which offers parking—a crucial feature for us.
Throughout the week, there are small deals available, but these hotels are always busy and fully booked. The Kyriad Hotel chain offers clean, efficient accommodations, typically featuring a restaurant serving breakfast and dinner, including on Sundays. The food is good, and the service is friendly.
Toulouse is one of the friendlier cities we've experienced overall. There is also a wide range of age groups, so Universities feed the city with youth and spark, making it a vibrant place.
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View from the Kyriad Hotel in Toulouse, France. |
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View from the Kyriad Hotel in Toulouse, France. |
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View from the Kyriad Hotel in Toulouse, France. |
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Tug boat doing its job! View from the Kyriad Hotel in Toulouse, France. |
Throughout the week, there are small deals available, but these hotels are always busy and fully booked. The Kyriad Hotel chain offers clean, efficient accommodations, typically featuring a restaurant serving breakfast and dinner, including on Sundays. The food is good, and the service is friendly. |
Toulouse, France |
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http://www.toulousedefrance.com/
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Toulouse is ideally situated in the heart of Southern France, between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean.
The cosmopolitan and enthusiastic Ville Rose joyously mixes heritage and lifestyle, great cultural events, and festival pleasures.
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Toulouse is an old, rich city that has managed to rebuild some of its historic buildings after the war and keep the tight old streets with cobblestones everywhere, which eventually lead to plazas filled with light, fountains, sculptures, gardens, cafes, etc.
There is a working canal that circles the city and a large river called La Garonne.
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Toulouse Graffiti |
Toulouse is a beautiful, romantic city where everyone dresses fashionably. It is known as the birthplace of high fashion, predating Paris. The city is home to many fashion designers, and we thoroughly enjoy window shopping.
With all this high fashion and the compact living spaces, there must be some fantastic consignment stores around.
We discovered an amazing fashion consignment shop called Groucho Retro, filled with stylish clothing, shoes, handbags, jackets, jewelry, and more. Inside, the fashionable sales staff are eager to assist you and often follow you around, putting back neatly anything you might have disturbed. While that can be a bit annoying, the store is filled with unique finds and great bargains, complemented by fantastic displays, which are essential in this vibrant city. I managed to find some suede fringe boots, while Jimmy picked up a couple of shirts.
The weather during our trip in October has been excellent, but we still needed to dress in layers—a jean jacket, a wool wrap, and a rain jacket. There was a bit of rain, but it never lasted long, and the sun came out each time.
Walking on cobblestones requires practical footwear, but French women of all ages wear stilettos and high heels. We think they are a bit insane for doing so, but they look absolutely fabulous, darling!
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Sculptured fountains in Toulouse |
In addition to the incredible stores where you can buy beautiful items, there is a wealth of history to explore, as well as well-stocked, well-maintained museums. Informational flyers are available at the hotel, and you can find guide maps, or simply say "Bonjour" and ask someone for assistance.
Dining can be quite expensive, with costs varying depending on whether you choose to sit in the café or eat outside. Since there is often a fountain or a bench near gardens and sculptures, we preferred to take our coffee, sandwiches, and pastries outside to find a spot for people-watching.
Once again, we lost track of what day of the week it was. Even in a bustling city, Sunday is a day of rest in the Catholic tradition, and everything closes down except for the Turkish fast food place, Don-Air.
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Entrance to the Musée des Augustins
http://www.augustins.org/
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In the cathedral area of Augustins |
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Augustin's Gothic Art displays
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Augustin's not only features Gothic architecture but also displays some fine artworks and sculptures, totaling 4,000 pieces.
There are separate buildings to wander through, each presenting exquisite works of art and numerous interior features.
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Art inside one of several buildings in the
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The Augustin Art museum...look no crowds! |
There were no crowds, making it the perfect opportunity to quietly meditate on a favorite work of art—total bliss. Earlier that day, live Gothic music was played in the cathedral, but we arrived too late to experience it.
The Augustine Monastery is truly a wonderful museum where you can spend a few hours or even a whole day exploring.
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Entrance to Musee Paul-Dupuy |
We discovered a charming museum called Musée Paul-Dupuy, which showcases a variety of objects, furniture, and artworks from the Middle Ages. The museum features numerous drawings and etchings by local Toulouse artists, along with collections of glassware, ironwork, enamel, gold and silver, pottery, and wood and ivory sculptures.
There's always someone in the room with you, and we found the staff very knowledgeable, friendly, and enthusiastic about sharing their historical insights on any item in the museum if you ask. Although it isn't a large museum, it’s a lovely stop during our walks exploring the city’s unique nuances.
Across the street, we noticed artwork that demanded our attention in a modern gallery called Galerie Graal, which showcases living artists with unique compositions and expert craftsmanship.
We had a wonderful conversation with the saleswoman, who was enthusiastic about sharing her passion for the artists' works in the gallery. My two favorites were Gerard Willemenot and Bernard Louredin.
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www.tourisme-orleans.com/hotels-orleans.php |
Jim was eager to explore more of Toulouse, but he was also focused on getting closer to Paris as our flight back to Vancouver, Canada, approached.
We decided to leave this amazing city and head to Orléans, which is located in north-central France, about 130 km (80 miles) southwest of Paris. Orléans sits on the Loire River, where it curves south towards the Massif Central.
Jim chose to visit Orléans because he had spent many years studying and performing music in New Orleans, USA, and he wanted to experience the city's birthplace. New Orleans (originally La Nouvelle-Orléans) was named after Orléans.
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Orleans Center Square |
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Orleans Cathedral |
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Orleans |
We see many shops we would like to explore for unique hats and outfits. Yet again, it’s a Sunday, and nothing is open. One night, Jim did laundry and struck up a friendship with some locals. He discovered a Persian woman who prepares and serves authentic Persian food at her small café, but she only opens in the evenings.
We are welcomed into her social circle, with customers and friends coming and going throughout the night. She served us lamb stew made with traditional spices and vegetables, accompanied by couscous. We also tried some delightful finger foods. When she brought out the large dish of food, we initially thought it was just for the two of us. As a result, we ended up overeating, but the food was incredibly delicious and all homemade.
As we prepared to leave the café, she encouraged us to stay longer and served us fresh steamed mint tea, which helped settle our stomachs. Although she didn’t speak any English, we managed to chat for hours into the late evening using our basic French.
Very excellent... Museum of Fine Arts in Orleans
Medieval Religious Art... gorgeous
We recently visited The Museum of Fine Arts in Orléans, which is recognized as one of the largest museums in France, second only to the Louvre. It boasts an exceptional and diverse collection of pastels, making it one of the finest art collections in Europe, representing art from the sixteenth century to the present day.
You can easily spend an entire day exploring the museum, as it features a wealth of paintings, sculptures, prints, drawings, and objets d'art. They provide headphones for guided tours, creating an engaging experience for visitors. Additionally, each room includes educational materials, conveniently available in English.
If you find yourself in Orléans, it's a must-see. The collections allow you to journey through time, from centuries past to today's contemporary art—truly a remarkable experience! Plus, admission is free on the first Sunday of every month.
That evening, we informed the hotel desk clerk of the time we needed to be awakened to ensure we could get out of bed, drop off our leased car, and arrive at the airport in Paris on time for our 11:00 AM flight.
However, we woke to sunlight streaming into the room, realizing we had missed our 5:30 AM wake-up call. Instead, we woke up at 8:30 AM. In a panic, we decided to make a dash for it, navigating through Monday morning traffic and avoiding speed cameras as we headed into Paris.
As we approached the airport, we missed the turnoff... dammit! We managed to find a turnaround on the highway, only to be stopped at one last toll booth. Our flight was leaving at 11:00 AM, but we kept going regardless; time was ticking away. Fortunately, the Peugeot leasing company provided us with a ride directly to Zoom Airlines' door.
We rushed in, only to find no one at the check-in booth. I waved someone down, and Jim tried to speak French one last time. They informed us that we were too late, but something about our desperation made the supervisor relent. He guided us to the luggage check-in and rushed us through security.
Earlier, we had bought a box of wine that Jim was excited to take on board, but it wasn’t allowed. In a panic, Jim refused to leave his precious wine behind. We stuffed it into my suitcase, as his lighter suitcase was sent through the conveyor belt first. We feared we would find it smashed, ruining all my clothes when we got back to Vancouver.
We made it onto the airport bus, where other passengers jokingly said we owed them a beer for the wait. Thanks to Zoom Airlines—or perhaps the universal travel gods—we made it onto the plane, and in the end, the box of wine survived the journey too!
CHEERS and SALUTE...
Minaz and Jim 'the Canadians'
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