2006 Thailand Backpacking Trip

We arrived in Bangkok on a Thai Airways flight, where we were greeted by men and women dressed in authentic, colorful Thai silk uniforms. The new airport in Thailand had just been completed, making us one of the first groups of travelers to land that week. It is the largest airport in Asia, and we found the staff to be courteous and helpful.

  Thailand 2006 Backpack Trip  

Travel Bangkok

Travel Kanchanaburi
Travel Ko Libong Island
Travel Nakhon Sri Thammarat
Travel Khanom Nai Ploa Beach

Bangkok Bridge over floods from the monsoon season.

Bangkok Night Life

Bangkok was our first experience in an Asian country. The first few days had us overwhelmed with the heat, smells, and the constant traffic noise 24 hours a day.  We just could not get to sleep in Bangkok, as we were jet-lagged and our digestive systems went on high alert. It was also monsoon season, so downpours could flood the streets in minutes, and getting soaked was common throughout our trip. 

Our budget was set at $60.00 per day for two of us, including meals, entertainment, lodging, and travel.

Bangkok Booze VW Bus

Entrepreneurs set up just about anywhere with whatever they have to sell. A Volkswagen bus was converted by some USA hippies into a booze bar parked right on the street curb. Now it’s franchised.

Monsoon season floods & Bangkok Bridge

We only had backpacks with us and didn’t bring enough changes of clothes or shoes. As a result, we had to stop and buy some clothes along the way. We were sweating the entire time heavily because we weren’t used to this kind of climate, and our clothes never seemed to dry.

Bangkok NIGHT Flower Market

We couldn’t sleep at all because of the squeaky, dirty fan whirring away and the city streets bustling with the noise of 2-stroke engines all night. So, we decided to venture out into the night to explore Bangkok.
 

Cats are everywhere in Bangkok and seem to be friendly
and better respected than the wild dog population.
These cats have kinky tails and are obviously mixed breeds.

We stopped in for a late-night bowl of noodle soup at a restaurant that is open all hours. I shared some petting time with the restaurant's infamous lucky Koret Cat that roam freely all over the city streets. 

Bundles of roses at the Night Flower Market, Bangkok

We decided to embark on another sleepless evening and hired a tuk-tuk to take us to the Night Flower Market, a truly magical place in the middle of the night. The market was bustling with buyers and sellers preparing for the next day’s flower shipments.

Bangkok Night Flower Market

Families are busy selling and buying flowers, while the youth lend a hand, and little children curl up asleep under tables. Many of the flowers are purchased for Buddhist ceremonies, and the bouquets are taken to the temples as offerings. Each type of flower and its color represents a specific wish or blessing.

Bangkok NIGHT Flower Market

Bangkok NIGHT Flower Market

Bangkok NIGHT Flower Market

The Bangkok Public City bus

What we learned on the streets of chaos... the rule is the BIGGEST vehicles get the RIGHT of WAY.  

Pedestrians walk at their own risk.    

Even the free-roaming dogs know to stay clear of traffic, as no one ever veers or slows down. The bus drivers have the right of way and do not yield to anyone, regardless of age. 

Accidents can happen in an instant. Crossing the street amid the rough, pitted roads and chaotic drivers coming from every direction—on tuk-tuks, motorcycles, and cars—was really freaking me out!

Thailand has  Tuk Tuk rentals as well as motorcycle rentals

 for going places that tuk-tuks can not take you. 

The drivers wear official orange vests.

 Prices vary by driver. 

We were in Thailand during a military coup d'etat and our hotel ended up being right beside the military camp. The Thai people seem to support their King & Queen of Thailand with great fondness and affection. We could see signs everywhere, proclaiming the glory and generosity the Royal Family has bestowed on their fellow countrymen. 

Bangkok relies on its canals to help manage monsoon floods. Shortly after we left the city, it experienced severe flooding. It has been reported that the planning departments of the new city had removed many of the useful canals to make space for roads. They soon regretted this decision, realizing it lacked foresight in preparing for the destructive monsoon rains.

Thai people wear yellow T-Shirts for Royal Approval

Bright yellow is worn to show appreciation for the Royalty. We discovered that the coup d'état was partly instigated by a greedy troublemaker—a gangster Prime Minister—who fled Thailand for England, where he could enjoy the billions of dollars he had embezzled from the country. He was notorious for selling a corporation to a Malaysian business group and then claiming he didn’t have to pay taxes. The expression “Off with his head” resonated with the Thai people we spoke to during our month-long journey.

Thailand's military is ready for the coup d'etat

Newly purchased a silk top to slip over the new cotton dress.
I am melting and sticky HOT!

We wandered around the air-conditioned shops, where I bought sandals and a blue cotton dress with a silk top to cover my skin when visiting Buddhist temples. The silk top could easily be tucked into my bag with the camera, so I could be respectful and cover up when necessary.

Beautiful water lilies are found in clay pots.

Bangkok University

We found the city too hot and overwhelming. The traffic pollution made it difficult to breathe, so we decided to stay for a few days to explore some sights in Bangkok before heading to the countryside. We have a month ahead of us to travel!

Bangkok Street Lamp Close to Palace

We spent time wandering around Bangkok, or should I say, more like stumbling over uneven sidewalks while surviving the roads and dodging traffic. My ankles were getting quite a workout! 

Political Art Bangkok

We discovered a hidden gem called the Queen Sirikit Art Gallery. It is wonderfully air-conditioned, and the entry fee is very affordable. The gallery features an extensive collection of authentic Thai art, both ancient and contemporary. 

Upon entering, visitors will find a room showcasing works by members of the Royal Family of Thailand who have taken up fine art painting as a hobby. As you explore the gallery, the exhibits progress chronologically, highlighting the evolution of Thai artists from historical periods to the modern day.

 

Political Art Bangkok

In the center of the Queen Sirikit Art Museum, a variety of friendly local artists display their artworks on wall racks for visitors to view and purchase. I had a wonderful time chatting with these Thai artists, all of whom communicated using pantomime—the universal language!

The Grand Palace in Bangkok ENTRANCE

We heard about an incredible place to visit, and it truly lived up to the hype: The Grand Palace is an extraordinary location for photography and exploration. 

It houses the Emerald Buddha, carved from green jade, which serves as a focal point for deep spiritual meditation. We were at the front of the line to enter the Grand Emerald Palace and eagerly anticipated the opportunity to photograph this magnificent site.

For women, it is important to know that a covering blouse is expected to hide the shoulders and neck.

The Grand Emerald Palace in Bangkok ENTRANCE

The Grand Palace in Bangkok features clay pots filled with water lilies, and each tree is meticulously groomed in the Bonsai style. 

Delicate cut glass and clay tiles are used to detail every surface. It's truly remarkable to see the extent of craftsmanship and the years of labor dedicated to preserving the Grand Emerald Palace.

Seems like all the trees are cut with Bonsai designs.

Decorative moldings painted in gold leaf with tiny cut glass enamel bits.

Everything is crafted by hand, gold leafed, cut color glass, hand-painted, and delicately crafted molds are used to make the intricately detailed trimming we see everywhere.

DETAILS in gold, enamels, and crafted clay molds. 

DETAILS in gold, enamels, tiles of cut glass, and crafted clay molds. 

DETAILS in gold, enamels, tiles of cut glass, and crafted clay molds.

Restorations of wall murals by trained artists.

Restorations of wall murals by trained artists.

Restorations of wall murals by trained artists.

The King's Emerald Grand Palace has been completely restored since the 1900s. Let’s just say a phenomenal amount of Thai money from the people went into restoring the palace. 

The Thais are very proud of this magnificent Palace. It hires lots of people to maintain it, and also the best artisans, craftsmen, gardeners, soldiers, etc., are employed to work in this absolutely gorgeous setting, and everyone is very honored to work here.

Restored Emerald Grand Palace in Bangkok

Shrine in one of the buildings at The Grand Palace

This is the food preparation area outside the temple.

There is a separate museum in the back area, out of the main tourist area, where they display the original artifacts that the new craftsman will copy and perfect. 

We enjoyed this quiet building out back, so we took the time to read and see the historical review of the restoration, which has an ancient history.

Details of gold & enamels with glass tiles railing on stairs.

Colorfully decorated statues stand guard at various building entrances.
 Additionally, large statue guards were prominently
displayed throughout the new Thailand Airport.

Each new piece of sculpture had to be restored or completely remade in the Palace workshops. The craftspeople learn to do this restoration with ancient-style tools and would need to study all the ancient Thai arts.

 
Larger than life-size statues covered in gold foil.

The Palace Guard Dogs

The Palace Elephants

During our cross-country adventure, we met a group of Thai schoolteachers on an island and formed a special connection with them. They invited us to visit their ancient city, Nakhon Sri Thammarat. 

Among the teachers was Mrs. Amnuay, a Thai art teacher. She explained that artists in Thailand can find full-time employment working on both new and ongoing restorations of Buddhist temples throughout the country.

The Giant Reclining Golden Buddha 
in Wat Pho, Bangkok

Giant Reclining Buddha has feet that are 5 meters long.

You must visit Wat Pho, which is home to the Giant Reclining Golden Buddha. This enormous statue is housed in a building that is just large enough to accommodate it. 

The Buddha is covered in real gold foil and stands 15 meters tall and 46 meters long, with each foot measuring 5 meters.

Pearl inlay on Giant Buddha's foot.

At the bottom of the Golden Buddha's foot, there are intricate illustrations made with mother-of-pearl inlay. Visitors have plenty of opportunities to get up close and take photographs.

LOOK at the elbow to COMPARE a small Buddha on a table. 

Buddhism is really BIG here; in fact, it is so big that their desire to make their Buddhas massive is needed to express the passion they have for this ancient spiritual belief, which came over from India in 555 B.C., when Buddhism first landed in Nakhon Sri Thammarat. There are endless shrines everywhere we went… even in the most remote areas. 

Beautiful water lilies everywhere, even in the most modest of buckets.

In Bangkok, everyone seems to be hustling, which becomes a bit irritating for us. We often found ourselves confronted by vendors trying to sell us something, making our walks around the city feel somewhat aggressive. 

It was clear that it was time for us to move on. Since we weren't staying in the upscale tourist area, perhaps the constant hassle would have been less intense elsewhere. Additionally, we needed to stick to our beer budget of about $60.00 a day for both of us, covering food, accommodation, and travel expenses.

A lone dog at the train station is looking for scraps.

Dog neglect is a significant issue in Thailand, affecting both urban and rural areas. Many dogs are homeless and lack basic care, food, and water. 

During our visit, we encountered dogs that were in advanced stages of decay—still alive but suffering—abandoned at a busy bus terminal in Kanchanaburi. It was disheartening to see even a Buddhist monk step over one of these suffering animals without a second glance. This harsh reality weighed heavily on my spirit.

 

A tiny mixed breed of free-roaming cats,
 They are approachable by strangers and little girls!

Korat Cat mixed breed with a kinky tail...very friendly!

For some reason, the cats appear to fare better and are friendlier, often enjoying a gentle pat, whereas the dogs seem frightened of people. 

I have noticed very small cats everywhere, displaying a variety of colors and stripes, as well as some uniquely shaped tails. One common feature among them is their large blue, gold, and green eyes and long, pointed ears, traits inherited from ancient ancestors such as the Korat cat.

Buddha Monk School, Bangkok

Thai Buddhists can pause their daily activities at any time to join a Buddha Boot Camp, regardless of age. Families often send money to support participants by providing food, housing, and robes. 

It is considered honorable to practice for at least one year. The individuals in the photo above are just beginning their journey, wearing bright orange wraps that indicate their level of study.

Each Buddhist has to shave their head, including women, and eat vegetarian foods. They are also not allowed to handle money, but are given free rides and food by other Thai people.

Bangkok Train Station

Jimmy sets off for the Banglamphu train station at 3:00 AM to purchase train tickets. The walk to the station could be dangerous, as there are no lights and many people are trying to reach their destinations. This area also attracts some unsavory characters looking for potential victims.

1950's Train Bangkok to Kanchanaburi

Travel Kanchanaburi

Central Thailand

Our next destination is Kanchanaburi, where we had the chance to spend time with a Princess of Thailand who served her Queen for 21 years as a lady-in-waiting.

Jim in the 1950's train heading out 
to the country and Kanchanaburi

We enjoyed our affordable ride on a well-maintained 1950s-era train. It was fascinating to see the layers of paint on the benches that had been applied over the years. 

The train made stops at every small town along the route, where women, men, and children would board to sell items from their baskets. They offered packaged snacks, cold beers, drinks, and sometimes even homemade food cooked on small charcoal burners. 

Unfortunately, the smell of burning charcoal was unpleasant to my sensitive nose, and I realized that this style of cooking is common everywhere. I couldn’t quite develop a taste for it, and regrettably, our digestion was in turmoil throughout the trip.

 

We had hoped our digestion would settle down, but it felt like morning sickness, with only brief breaks between bouts of discomfort. As we ventured further away from the bustling city of Bangkok, the food became less refined, and we noticed a significant increase in the number of bugs on our plates. 

At one point, we even saw a woman selling live maggots—a delicacy fried and served with a spicy sauce.

Bangkok Bridge and monsoon flooding. 

After spending three days in Bangkok trying to acclimatize, we decided to head to Kanchanaburi, where Jimmy had a surprise for us involving tigers!

 

We traveled for three hours on an old 1950s train, leaving behind the endless slums of suburban Bangkok. Riding this vintage train was the most enjoyable way to experience the countryside and observe the changes in agriculture and landscape along the way.

Loved the rickety clack sounds of the 1950s train and the gentle rocking. Ah, fresh air and the countryside bring happiness as we escape the big city, Bangkok. The old train is entirely wooden inside, and the windows remain open even though it’s monsoon season. Chilled air does not exist, and fans attached to the ceiling, covered in grime, blow somewhat cool air throughout the train.

Kanchanaburi Train Station & Royal Yellow Train

If you want to go to Kanchanaburi, repeat after me: Gan-ja-na-boo-li. Learning how to properly pronounce Thai city names helps you get the correct ticket at train and bus stations.

Kanchanaburi Train Station

Upon arriving at the Kanchanaburi Train Station, numerous men approached us, attempting to persuade us to take their transportation to our river lodging. Jimmy tried to negotiate using his newly learned Thai.

 

We explored various options, including pickup trucks and stylish scooters, but we unknowingly ended up with what must have been the cheapest choice: a 1960s Kawasaki motorbike with an old, rusty sidecar that wouldn’t start. We began to feel too large and heavy for that contraption. 

Despite our concerns, our enthusiastic driver assured us there would be no problem. However, the bike struggled to start, and when it finally did, it lacked power, and its clutch was inoperative.

The other transporters are laughing hysterically as they watch us with this guy on what will be the bike's final trip. The other drivers helped push the bike while we remained in the sidecar as we crossed an insane four-lane highway.

 

Everyone was speeding, and we felt like we could die right there! It was both dangerous and humiliating, with everyone laughing at us. The Canadians are here!

Green Chopper outside of the tattoo parlor in Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi side street and a motorcycle with a sidecar.

Traveling around Thailand provides a wide range of transportation options. You can choose from pedi-bikes, old trains, sleeper trains, local yellow trains, motor scooters, sidecar motorbikes, taxis, various buses, vans, boats, and even elephants. The modes of transportation we selected were just as integral to the Thai experience as enjoying the local cuisine.

 

We traveled with only our backpacks, and at times, even that felt like too much to carry depending on our mode of transportation. Despite the challenges, we managed. I want to express my gratitude to Jimmy for offering to carry my larger, heavier pack, which contained all our toiletries, medicines, and art supplies.

Kanchanaburi Broom Sellers

It's consistently hot and humid everywhere, regardless of whether it's raining; it’s always uncomfortable. Dehydration is a constant concern, and finding bottled water is an ongoing challenge. 

Accessing public restrooms can be a significant issue, and it's important to remember to bring your own toilet paper, as it is typically not provided. We found that most bug sprays and sunscreen tended to melt away quickly, making them seem almost pointless to use.

Could you please explain how to use it? 

Toilet paper is not included. 

 

Bugs become a noticeable part of our breathing and eating. Food starts to transform into uncharted experiences, leading to a continual cycle of dietary cleansing that our bodies express daily.

Resort area by Kanchanaburi, Main Street

Kanchanaburi was one of the last stops where we experienced Thai food prepared in a more refined way, similar to what we know as Thai cuisine in Canada.

Every restaurant we visited in this resort town served delicious food at excellent prices. Kanchanaburi attracts many foreign visitors, prompting local establishments to cater to their tastes.

An authentic Thai breakfast consists of similar ingredients to dinner, but it's typically served as a soup with an egg dropped into the hot broth. 

A word of caution: it is very, very hot! The coffee is consistently great-tasting and served espresso-style in small cups. Often, a second cup is not the usual expectation, and coffee is sometimes accompanied by hot tea to cleanse your palate. 

Chocolate is rare, while ice cream from a San Francisco-based company has become very popular.

We also found places that served American breakfasts, which usually just consist of eggs and thin white toast. One of the best treats was fried bananas, and some vendors offered banana pancakes that were absolutely delicious! The serving sizes were small, perfect for sampling multiple dishes. Dinner prices rarely exceeded $6.00, which included cold beer, three dishes, and a dessert for two people. Breakfast could cost less than 300 baht.

Ploy River Kwai Resort

www.ploygh.com

We arrived at a Japanese-style resort called Ploy River Kwai Guesthouse. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by a young man who displayed a delightful sense of humor and flair. He showed us around the property and excitedly pointed out the mini fridge, emphasizing its appeal by waving his arms and hips like Vanna White from a game show. With a grin, he said, “And it comes with the mini fridge!” To which we responded, “SOLD!”

The mini fridge behind Jim kept our water cool. The bed was big and elevated on a platform. It was a nice place, and we liked the people here too.

The shower is completely outside, but there is privacy.

The toilet is partially outside,
with the shower on the other side of this partial wall.

The bathroom includes a flush toilet, toilet paper, a sink, and a shower, which is situated outside our room within our private walled garden. 

When we go to the bathroom, we always have to step over a line of marching sugar ants and be cautious of the large centipede that lives in the corner of the shower.

Sharing the shower with a large centipede!

Ploy River Kwai Lounge area

It was lovely to sit on the veranda of the Ploy River Kwai guesthouse. This is where we met people from all over the world and chatted while overlooking an inlet of the River Kwai. 

When we first arrived, I thought I saw a small crocodile in the water, but later I learned it was actually the town's lizard. At times, the lizard strolls through town, hissing at everyone around it.

View from the veranda lounge of the River Kwai 
and where the large lizard lives and hunts.

River Kwai view from the veranda lounge.
The long-tailed power boats are traveling
 up and down transporting people and goods.

One day, while I was relaxing in the veranda lounge at the Ploy River Resort, I struck up a conversation with a remarkably beautiful older Thai woman. She introduced herself by her nickname, Nid, although her full name is Benjawan Chakrabandu. We discussed our travels around the world and shared our thoughts on politics. Eventually, she invited us to join her at the table for more in-depth conversations.
 

Breakfast with Nid, Grandchild, and Jim

Later, we discover that Nid served as a Lady-in-Waiting to the Queen of Thailand for 21 years. She is the fifth daughter of a Thai prince and was educated in Paris. 

It turns out that the manager of the resort and the  man we encountered early when getting into our room are both servants of the family. The young child in Nid's arms is her granddaughter, who is also a princess.

Grandmother Nid and Grandchild at Breakfast time!

The granddaughter was always under the watchful eyes of the older servants and was cared for like a sister by the younger ones. These servants are family members with a long tradition of serving Thailand's royal families, and they hold a higher status than typical hired employees. Nid's son, Prawee, had a small resort built as an investment, providing them with a discreet getaway outside Bangkok.

Ten Buddhist monks are hired
 to perform ceremonial chants and blessings.

After chants and blessings, we crawl on our knees
to receive their blessings and to give gifts.

Nid invited us to join her and another world traveler from the USA, named Miles, for a private Buddhist ceremony of blessings designed to chase away negative spirits. Special woven mats were laid out, and the entire village prepared its best dishes to serve the ten singing monks and the royal family.

 

After the monks finished their meals, they sat back down on the ceremonial mats, where individual gifts were presented to each monk. The monks then performed their final chants and blessings before departing. The leftover food was laid out on picnic tables for the rest of us to enjoy. We had a wonderful time meeting the rest of the family, and everyone was a fantastic conversationalist.

Jim, Miles, and Nid's family gather to eat the banquet.

Nid is encouraging us to try out some 
authentic Thai dishes, and Miles is hesitating!

The rest of the family came from Bangkok to participate in the Buddhist ceremony, and we all enjoyed our lunch in a relaxed atmosphere under the shaded veranda.

This person is the architect and friend of Nid's family, and the dog wearing the dress is Bangkok DOLLY!

Our shared taxi truck ride to the Tiger Temple.
 Included a couple of Thai women, one Swiss guy, and one Australian guy.
The Swiss and Australian men had hired the Thai women as their holiday dates.

The surprise that awaited me was a trip to the incredible Tiger Temple, where Buddhist monks and animals coexist. Jimmy kept this a secret until we arrived at the gates. 

Meeting the young deer at the entrance was delightful, but the overpowering smell of urine was almost unbearable and made it difficult for me to venture further. However, once we moved deeper into the jungle, the smell dissipated, and I was able to fully enjoy the rest of the adventure.

Welcoming us at the gate of the TIGER TEMPLE
  Is this a friendly young deer!

Small tour groups are organized by local villagers in Kanchanaburi, who generously donate their time and trucks to drive us into the jungle hills. 

At a specific time each day, the Buddhist monks take the tigers out for a swim and allow tourists to play with them. This promises to be a very interesting day!

Tiger is being guided through the tourist and
other animals with a monk and a qualified helper.

The Buddhist monks and helpers walk several of the grand tigers to a big pit in the heat of the day. We, the tourists, go into the pit to hopefully meet some friendly tigers lounging contentedly. The tigers are chained to a spike in the ground, and a keeper is close by for each tiger.

I SHOULD HAVE CHECKED PHOTOS before leaving the local computer service to make sure I got ALL the photos downloaded, as later, once home, I found no photos of us with the tigers.

We, the tourists, are guided to a pit and then taken to an outdoor tent with seats. A monk checks our energy before we get close to the tigers. Not everyone has good energy for the tigers; for example, our Tiger Taxi friend from Australia is obnoxious, boisterous, and loud. As a result, he is not allowed to approach the tigers but can watch from the sidelines.

Tigers are being walked back to their cages.

Several tigers are chained to a stake in the ground, allowing tourists to walk around each tiger with a guide for relative safety. One of the tigers might playfully swipe at our ankles, so caution is advised.

 

A trained monk, who has raised and cared for the tiger, will stay with that particular tiger throughout its life. We rely on the monk to assess our presence first, ensuring that the tiger is comfortable with us touching and being near it.

Tourists & Animals at the Tiger Temple

This type of tourism attraction, where wild animals roam freely among tourists, would not be considered safe in Canada, Europe, or the USA. 

I don't think there is a specific word for "safety" in Thai, and I later discovered that it's quite rare for anyone to sue or involve lawyers. Things just happen!

Tiger Temple has many animals that live alongside the monks. 

Here are some water buffaloes. 

Get out of their way!

Boars, chickens, roosters, cows, deer, buffaloes
  All seem very relaxed, walking about tourists with cameras.

Tiger Temple DINNER BELL!

Tiger Temple Meeting Hall for the Monks in Thailand

Some of the animals, like this bull
want to be petted, so Jim obliged!

Thailand has been raising funds to build a sanctuary to preserve tigers. The plan includes keeping the tigers separate with canals on protected land. 

The tours organized contribute to realizing this dream for both the monks and the tigers. The entire project relies on donations, as the monks are not allowed to earn money and depend on the support of generous individuals.

These two were all lovey and wanted me to share in the LOVE!

Buddhist monks believe that tigers are the old spirits of former monks. They aim to demonstrate peace between animals that are typically predators and prey. 

All the tigers in the sanctuary are rescued from perilous situations and come from various countries to live out their lives in a safe environment. 

When a new tiger arrives, it takes time for it to adapt, especially since it is not accustomed to living peacefully with other territorial tigers.

Tigers walk among us with only a leash.

The Thai army is assisting in clearing the grounds and digging deep canals to designate sections of the reserve as the future home for tigers. 

There is a documentary on the Animal Planet network featuring a Buddhist monk who oversaw our visit to the Tiger Temple. I noticed that the show did not mention tourists interacting closely with the tigers, which makes me think that this practice is kept low-key from the public.

One important factor in keeping the tigers more docile is that they are fed no red meat or blood of any kind. The villagers donate chicken bones, which are collected by a few women. 

They grind the bones into a paste, then mix in other ingredients and cook it in a very large pot, creating a slop that has no blood taste. This approach helps prevent the tigers from becoming aggressive, and so far, it has been successful!

The wild boars seem to not  pay much attention
to the people wandering around the place.

When we returned to the resort, my camera was set up to display the pictures on the TV, and we saw some fantastic photos of both of us petting the tigers and their coarse hair.
 

Tigers cage.

Like many photography mishaps, I experienced disappointment on this trip: my batch of lost pictures. When I asked a woman to download the photos onto two discs, she somehow managed to miss adding any pictures of us in the tiger pit—not a single photo made it to the discs. 

However, every other picture taken before and after our time in the pit was included. I was so disappointed that none of the tiger pictures of Jimmy and me made it! None of the tiger pictures of Jimmy and me made it!

River Kwai Bridge

The bridge over the River Kwai is a famous World War II-era structure that connects Thailand and Burma. During the war, the Japanese forced prisoners of war—comprising Australians, British, Americans, Burmese, Chinese, and Thai—to construct this bridge in order to facilitate their path to Burma. The bridge was bombed on two occasions.

When the Japanese learned that the bridge was to be bombed, they lined up the prisoners across it, aware that the bombers would not only be destroying the bridge but also killing their own comrades. The river ran red with blood for some time afterward. 

The Japanese soldiers would simply bring in more prisoners to rebuild the bridge. The conditions for the prisoners were extremely poor, and they were mostly fed just white rice, leading to starvation and death.

Old Stage Coach inside the River Kwai Museum

River Kwai War Museum

The River Kwai War Museum is definitely worth a visit, as it shares powerful stories and showcases a variety of historical artifacts.

 Some of the prisoners created paintings depicting life in the prison camp. As you explore the museum's well-curated displays, it becomes clear just how deep the suffering of people can be during times of war.

Minaz and a baby elephant in Kanchanaburi, Thailand.

Thailand uses elephants for tourism, which provides income for some but often comes at a high cost to the elephants' well-being. These animals may never experience true freedom and frequently endure mistreatment by humans.

 

During our visit, we crossed the River Kwai Bridge and encountered a young elephant that was chained up. A child was selling bags of food for tourists to feed the animals. This sight saddened me, as I realized that while the elephant was a source of income for the struggling family, it was also suffering.

 

On a hot and sticky morning, we walked from our resort to the famous River Kwai Bridge. The walk across the bridge is free, but be cautious—there are no safety railings, and the 2x4 wooden boards are only wide enough for one person at a time. Once we reached the other side, we spent a moment with the baby elephant before making our way back across the precarious bridge.

Albert Einstein is represented at the River Kwai Museum.

A bus full of unruly Chinese tourists arrives, creating a half-crazed mob marching toward us. With no room to step aside from the crowd, we had to yell to persuade them to turn their bodies to the side so we could all pass each other safely.

Gravestone Stupa in a graveyard for the prisoners
who died during the capture of the Japanese.

Many prisoners died under Japanese rule, and each culture is represented in this graveyard by various styles of gravestones.

Tombstone for the River Kwai Battle

Tombstone for the River Kwai Battle

The large grave site features tombstones from various countries whose citizens were prisoners involved in the construction of the River Kwai Bridge.

 

Every culture that died in the River Kwai battle
is represented by its cultural style of tombstones.
This one is a Chinese tombstone.

Complex tile design and painting to decorate
 the Stupa tombstones of Thai people. 

The stupa-shaped tombstones are designated for the Thais, while the lower marble tombstones are for the Chinese. At the back of this site, tombstones mark the graves of individuals from Australia, Britain, and other countries. 

Over the years, families have been repatriating the bodies to their home countries, but the gravestones remain as a memory of their loved ones who died in Kanchanaburi.

Praying shrines are disposed under a tree.

On a lighter note, just before we arrived at the large grave site, we had our first Thai massage. In the morning, we walked around the city looking for a place that seemed authentic for massage therapy, carefully avoiding any Thai whorehouses known as “happy ending parlors.” 

We were welcomed by a Pekingese dog as we entered what appeared to be an official traditional massage school. Friendly faces greeted us and immediately offered us fried bananas, which tasted absolutely delicious.

Jimmy negotiates and explains that we are looking for a body massage. Two older, larger women enter, ready to provide a Thai massage. We both notice a large glass-enclosed room with stepped seating and a TV set, thinking this must be where they hold massage demonstrations for teaching purposes.

We climbed three flights of narrow stairs, following the two massage therapists, until we reached a room with neatly lined up thin mats on the floor. The air conditioning and TV were turned on for our comfort. 

I ended up with the largest woman, who gave me the best massage of my life. She flipped me around like a pancake, and that’s where I learned another Thai word: "dee," which means “good.” We laughed a lot, and I moaned constantly, which made her smile as she expertly found all the right spots.

 

Beside me, Jimmy was enjoying his treatment as well. After two hours, the therapist, number 23, began negotiating for more money with him. The price she demanded was significantly higher than what we had originally agreed upon. In reality, it was only a few dollars that they were haggling over, but it was more about the principle of the matter. Eventually, Jim settled on a reasonable price, and we made our way back down the stairs.

 

On the second floor, as we descended the last flight of stairs, we noticed young Thai girls getting their hair done at a makeshift hairdressing station set up in the hallway. Once we reached the main floor, we saw that the glass-enclosed room that had been empty earlier was now filled with young girls who had numbers pinned to their shoulders, watching TV and knitting. (Who wears sweaters in Thailand?) We speculated that it might be their coffee break during a massage or beauty course they were undertaking.

Jimmy is encouraged by the number 23, who asks him, "Do you want to 'LIKE?'” as she points to the young girls in the glass room. “Happy ending for you?” she teases. “Pick out the number you like,” she continues. 

Finally, we share a laugh and understand what she is offering. It's noon, and the whorehouse is open for business!

We decided it was time to explore more of Thailand and wanted to hit the beaches. 

Off to Kolibong Island we went, staying at a beach shack on the ocean at Le Dugong Libong Beach Resort.

Travel Ko Libong Island
South Thailand

Kolibong's only road/path is for scooters ONLY,
NO CARS on this island. At the end of this path is our beach shack.

Leaving Kanchanaburi, Jim and I took the overnight train in first class. It's important to note that first-class accommodations in Thailand do not meet the standards typically expected in Europe, Canada, or the USA. One key tip is to avoid booking a room near the bathroom and to always bring your own toilet paper. 

 

The first-class train bathroom was quite unpleasant, and I will do my best to describe it with some dignity. You step into an incredibly foul, dirty room with swinging doors that do not latch, thumping noisily with the train's movements. Then, you bravely step up onto a box with a hole in it and squat while trying to reach out to the walls for support, hoping you don’t tip over. It is not a relaxing experience, especially when you're trying to manage a bowel movement that won’t wait. 

There is never any toilet paper; you have to manage without it, making this a true yoga challenge. The smell is overwhelming and made me retch, but you have to do what needs to be done as quickly as possible. Afterward, you can retreat to our cubbyhole and wash your hands with disinfectant. The odor will cling to your clothes and hair until you can take a proper bath.

 

We had a private sleeping room with bunk beds and a sink, and we managed to fall asleep during the journey. At mealtimes, locals would come on board to sell baskets of homemade food, packaged snacks, beer, and juice. 

I could never quite get past the smell of the food cooked on the charcoal grills used by some vendors, so I stuck to packaged foods, wary of the unsanitary conditions many locals endure.

 

We arrived in the city of Trang early in the morning and walked through the streets looking for the local van and bus station that would take us to the outskirts of Thailand. 

 

Finding signs can be challenging, but being a tourist with backpacks typically attracts friendly locals who are willing to help with directions. Eventually, we found our bus stop and piled into a van filled to the brim with passengers before departing. The bus would leave only when completely full. 

 

Eventually, we arrived at a seaside fishing village, where we were instructed to wait for our ride after delivery trucks unloaded supplies onto an old, rickety long-tail boat, which would then take us to Kolibong Island.

Kolibong Island Beach

Expectations for safety and comfort are not usually part of traveling in the Thai style. Our boat captain finally finishes loading his deliveries to the brim, and we squeeze on board alongside a couple of Muslim women and their children to head out to the island resort.

Garbage is everywhere on the beaches, which is typical.
Local waste is thrown into the ocean, while some plastic is picked up for recycling.

Unlike the tourist pictures that advertise Thailand, we arrive at a pier surrounded by scruffy people with missing teeth, living in huts, and with garbage everywhere, both in the water and on land. I give Jimmy a worried look, hoping we won’t have to stop here, but he speaks to the locals, and they assure us we are in the right place.

 

Before I can protest any further about staying on this island, a toothless scooter driver grabs my backpack and waves for me to hop onto his scooter. 

 

Jim has already taken off with his driver, and I’ve lost sight of him. I am nervous, to say the least, as it feels like we could disappear off the planet, and no one would ever find us. 

I can barely hold on to the scooter driver while also carrying my backpack, which is sandwiched between us. I just hope the journey is short and leads to my version of a happy ending!

This is the only land route in and out of Kolibong Island.

HOME away from HOME,
our beach shack on Kolibong Island, Thailand.

As we enter the jungle of Kolibong Island, I notice that there are no roads, only a narrow scooter path weaving between stick-built shacks, some of which are on stilts. I can also hear the Muslim prayer chants echoing loudly through the jungle. 

Finally, we reach the end of the scooter path, where a beach resort awaits us, with palm-frond shacks lining the seaside. Jimmy is there waiting for us.

Monsoons make for beautiful clouds.

Owner of our little beach resort.
He will make any arrangements.

No one other than the Islanders is here at this little resort, and so we are greeted by Buddhist Moo, who turns out to be the most hospitable hostess and her helper.

Moo on the right and helper on the left in front
of resort Le Dugong Libong main office/kitchen.

Kolibong Kitten Friend

We have a delightful little kitten that we nicknamed Kolibong Kitten, and she quickly became our playful companion and breakfast friend. 

Generally, Thais have a different attitude toward cats and dogs compared to Europeans and North Americans. They were surprised to see us playing with and petting their little cat.

Evening nap after dinner.

Minaz on play dates with Kitty

LOVE LOVE Kolibong Kitty LOVES to play for Minaz! LOVE LOVE

Moo loved to showcase her expertise in cooking home favorites for us. By this time, we had almost completely lost our appetites and had to keep our meals as simple as possible, which was nearly impossible, except for the endless mounds of white rice. The fresh pineapple she sliced for us was absolutely delicious.

 

We discovered that the menus provided before each meal didn't really matter. They were merely a way to suggest that we wanted to be fed, rather than reflecting what we actually wanted from the menu, since they often didn’t list the items. 

The coffee was fabulous, served in only one small cup and accompanied by water and tea. The fresh fruit was abundant and delightful. The seafood we enjoyed from the daily catch was tasty, but the seasoning sometimes upset our stomachs during subsequent purges. Additionally, refrigeration was only operational for a few hours each day.

Beach sculpture made from
 beach garbage and natural items.

To my dismay, we discovered that the beach was covered in garbage—everywhere you looked. Most travel photos of pristine beaches do not reveal the hours it takes to get them that way. 

Each morning, a new assortment of items washes ashore, including bits of clothing, Styrofoam debris, large light bulbs, Red Bull cans, and plastic and glass bottles. Our oceans have become dumping grounds for society's waste.

Garbage on the beach BEFORE cleanup.

Garbage still washes up daily.

It took us two days to reach this island, and we felt compelled to stay and help clean the beach. We requested garbage bags, shovels, and rakes, and immediately got to work picking up trash from the beaches and surrounding areas. 

The islanders watched with curiosity as we spent days in the heat collecting garbage. They must have thought we were crazy!

Hammock out front of our shack, where the Muslim Boy
would sit and keep watch over us every day.

We were watched daily by a young Muslim boy who had been instructed to sit in front of our shack all day while we were there. He observed us as directed by the Muslim cleric from Hat Yao.

 

I made a point not to lie out on the beach or be in public wearing just my swimsuit; instead, I stayed covered up until we were out of their sight. Jim spoke with the cleric and was looking for new acolytes to join his group. 

Later, on the news, we heard about radical Muslims blowing themselves up and causing destruction in a market in Yala province, Thailand.

CLEAN the beach in front of our shack, and the tide is out.

Ultimately, the entire beach area was being cleaned, with the islanders eager to help and even retrieving their saws to clear some underbrush.

My collection of shells 
Now they are featured in a wooden bowl on my table.

Part of Kolibong Island
Only accessible by boat.

We rented a paddle boat and made our way to another beach area featuring stunning red lava-like rocks. The sand was so bright it hurt to look at without sunglasses. 

While wading in the water, I accidentally got stung by a small jellyfish, and it felt as though I was being pierced by thousands of hot needles. I quickly ran out of the water, and the red stinging sensation lasted for quite a while. The area around the sting remained red for the duration of our trip. 

I can’t imagine how painful it must be to survive a sting from a larger jellyfish after experiencing the smaller one on my ankle. Even years later, I still have scars from that jellyfish sting.

Bed with netting.

Rocking chair made from palm trees.

Outside shower with privacy.

Outside toilet over bamboo slats.

View from the corner of the bed.

We later learned that electricity was available only twice a day and not at all at night, which meant the fan wouldn’t run.

Fortunately, the resort next to us had a generator, so we were able to buy a cold beer during the afternoon monsoon rains.

Monsoon rains daily.

Dieter is joining us for breakfast. 
Jam, coffee, and white bread toasted with fresh pineapple slices.
Notice the sign when a 
Tsunami hits, run for the hills!

One morning, we welcomed a new visitor to the camp, Dieter, from Germany. He joined us for some adventures, laughter, and great conversations. Dieter is a retired editor of a magazine called Technology and Culture and has spent many years as a journalist in Africa. He has experienced more than his fair share of horrors during his journeys and has many fascinating stories to share. 

To explore the nearby islands, we decided to split the costs to hire Captain Bow for our excursions.

Captain Bow and his boat are taking us on an ocean adventure.

Dieter & Jimmy are on their way for some island hopping.

We decided to venture off the island to explore the various beaches. During our adventure, we encountered giant jellyfish in the water. 

We began to understand why the locals might not find swimming appealing; despite their beauty, jellyfish can be lethal to humans.

We arrive at Paradise Beach by boat.
Also known as LOVE ISLAND
where transsexuals and gay men come on holiday.

Garden ENTRANCE to Love Island Cabins

Sculptures of animals are featured
throughout Love Island's garden.

Using driftwood, sculptures, and flowers
to create a wild-looking garden at Love Island.

There are several animals represented in the garden, 
and these sculptures are noticed throughout Thailand.
They are widely used to decorate outside doorways and walkways.

Buddhism, spirituality, and its practices are evident even in the remotest of areas.
There are daily offerings displayed in the prayer temples.

Paradise Beach is also known as Love Island, which turns out to be a holiday place for transsexual Thai men, but in its offseason. Jim goes off on his own and comes across a few transsexuals enjoying a relaxing moment; they are very pleased to have Jim, the blue-eyed Canadian, join them for a cold beer and pineapple. They had a great time laughing and talking while Dieter and I went off exploring without cameras. 

Being gay in Thailand is not frowned upon but accepted as calmly as bugs that fly.  The cabins' standards were scary at best, but just down the beach was an exclusive resort being built for foreigners to arrive by boat.

Here's hoping the Capt. Bow will come back to pick us up!

Emerald Island was totaled during the Tsunami
And the old resort is gone, but it will be rebuilt.

Since the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, we have observed that many of the islands we visited are developing new luxury resorts owned by foreign investors. This trend is leading to the takeover and potential loss of locally owned family resorts. 

Despite the threat of another tsunami hitting the region, it does not deter the substantial influx of money aimed at capitalizing on the tourist dollar in these islands.

View from our beach shack.

Walking along our newly cleaned beach, Jim runs into a group of Thais who are teachers from an ancient city not really known to North Americans for tourism. 

Suriwan is a guidance teacher and loves to practice her English with Jim, while he is keen on practicing more of his Thai. The group of Thai teachers invited us to their city and promised to take us on trips if we visited. We decided later to take them up on their offer.

Hibiscus plant beside our beach shack.

After a week of sleeping on uncomfortable beds, enduring the heat without air conditioning, battling countless bugs, and facing very limited food options, it was time to move on. 

We decided to accept the Thai teachers' invitation to explore their ancient city, Nakhon Sri Thammarat. This journey promised an entire day filled with various travel experiences as we continued our Thailand adventure.

Leaving Kolibong Island by boat.

Monsoons are flooding out northern Thailand, and many mentions of bombings near tourist areas, and meanwhile, the Coup d’état is still happening, so we want to stay away from the potential disaster zones.

Saying good-bye to Kolibong Island

Instead of the precarious ride back on scooters through the island jungle, we decided to hire a boat for 1,200 baht to take us back to the mainland. From there, we planned to catch a van bus back to Trang. Jim asked the boat driver to drop us off at the express bus that heads north along the East Coast.

Seedling for a palm tree.

JOY SPOT

As it turns out, we were dropped off at the local bus stop, which was an absolute riot. Our road trip included stops at all the little towns along the way. The cost was 100 baht per day’s ride, which provided total entertainment! 

The colorful bus was adorned with dangling decorations, and the television played loud Thai music videos. Everyone was excited and dressed in their finest outfits, adding to our traveling entertainment.

Later, we learned that to catch a bus that operates on no real schedule, people put out a plastic chair at the end of their driveway. This is where the ticket taker and assistant look out for the bus. 

When the driver approaches, they sound the horn several times. The person waiting then runs to the road, money in hand, to catch the bus—unless they're a Buddhist monk, in which case they travel for free.

Monsoon Clouds

We take another road trip on a local cross-country bus where few white people like Jim are ever seen in the area. Because Jim attempted to speak their language, the Thais were always gracious and open to talk. 

HAPPY Mannequin
THAI style!

At the end of the day, our cheeks would be sore from smiling so much. The people of Thailand are amazing wherever we travel.

Travel Nakhon Sri Thammarat

South Thailand

Next, we will travel to the incredible ancient city of Nakhon Sri Thammarat for one week. We have made lifelong friends with the Thai teachers and will explore the beginnings of Buddhism in Thailand. 

Wat Phra Mahathat, where Buddhism was first introduced to Thailand

Downtown Nakhon Sri Thammarat, South Thailand

What an amazing city! It's relatively easy to navigate once you get the hang of it, and it's very affordable. This is not your typical tourist destination, but rather a place rich in history.

Nakhom Sri Thammarat ENTRANCE

We have departed from Kolibong Island to visit our new Thai friends, Supra and Siriwan, in their city, Nakhon Sri Thammarat. They proudly described this city as one of the cleanest and most historic in Thailand. Additionally, the Thai teachers have promised to take us on tours to share their hospitality and showcase the local countryside.

Nakhom Sri Thammarat downtown traffic!

After our adventure and a scenic bus ride across Thailand, we are ushered through monsoon rains onto another big bus full of locals. 

The ever-present video of Thai pop music blares out of cheap speakers, forever creating a soundtrack to our travel adventures.

Coconut Deliveries in Nakhon Sri Thammarat

Every afternoon, the monsoon rains pour down in buckets, soaking everything and everyone. Despite the downpour, people continue to smile as they navigate the streets, sharing umbrellas with one another. 

We observed individuals riding scooters through busy streets, holding their umbrellas like shields in front of them to prevent the wind from flipping them inside out. 

Meanwhile, the rest of us were trying to squeeze into a crowded bus entrance, with little regard for accessibility. Thankfully, no one got hurt, though that’s said somewhat sarcastically!

Wood delivery in Nakhon Sri Thammarat.

The bus driver has his kids with him for the day, and together they ensure an efficient bus ride into rural Southern Thailand. The daughter collects fares and manages the video tapes, while the son hangs out the bus door, watching for passengers along the road ahead. The bus horn blows to signal and pick up new riders. It seems there are no official bus stops, and the schedule runs on "Thai time"!

 

Thais are polite to everyone, it seems. Even in cramped, hot, and sticky conditions, my acute sense of smell notices that people do not have body odors like those often found among Europeans and North Americans. 

Thanks to sweating, monsoon rains, healthy diets, and a strong sense of personal hygiene, even those who are considered very poor tend to be relatively tidy and well-groomed. In this city, we only saw one beggar who looked unkempt and smelled bad; later, we learned that he was a well-known Caucasian junkie from the USA.

Nakhon Sri Thammarat, the ancient walls.

Jim and I arrive at the outskirts of our new city and begin figuring out what type of transportation we need to reach a decent hotel in Nakhon Si Thammarat. This city is significant in the history of the ancient kingdom of Tambralinga and was part of the Srivijaya Empire until the early 13th century. 

There’s a lot of history to explore here, and the city is filled with friendly, smiling Thais!

Ancient walls of Nakhon Sri Thammarat

The cross-country bus drops us off in an area filled with scooter riders on the edge of the city center. From here, we need to find a scooter to take us anywhere we want for a negotiated fee. 

Later on, we discovered another efficient form of transportation: small pickup trucks, equipped with rooftop and bench seating along the sides, which transport many people throughout the day along dedicated roads within the city limits. 

 

You can hear the truck-bus approaching, thanks to the lively music playing from Thai TV videos—gotta love it! Just walk up, wave to signal them over, and hop into the back to grab a seat. The driver won't take just one passenger; they'll wait for more riders to make the trip worthwhile. So, we all pitch in by waving to potential passengers to join us on our way to our destination.

Nakhon Sri Thammarat City Center,

walking on the overpass.

Loud Thai pop music serves to attract paying passengers along the sidewalks. We simply jump onto the back of the trucks, find a seat, and pay only 20 cents per trip to any point along the designated routes. 

We pay the driver once we arrive at our destination, but we need to let him know in advance where we want to get off, either by telling him or knocking on the inside window.

It's important to note that there are no time schedules—arriving when you do is considered the right time, in a Buddhist sense! The drivers will turn around at their designated endpoints and return along the same route, picking up passengers going in the opposite direction.

They operate this way throughout the day, but the truck buses stop working around 6:00 PM. This transportation system seems quite efficient. If we need to travel off the designated routes, we can hire a motor scooter driver wearing an official orange vest.

In the photo on the left,
there is a converted truck featuring bench seating
 for transporting passengers to various locations along its routes.
It also includes complimentary HAPPY Dance Thai music!

Taxi scooters operate around the clock and can reach areas that bus routes don’t cover. You can negotiate pricing with the drivers, but ensure that they are wearing official orange jackets for safety. 

These scooter drivers are skilled at fitting several passengers, groceries, and even grandma onto one scooter. They navigate the city by weaving in and out of traffic at impressive speeds. It's amazing to see how even the babies know to hold on tight!

Most drivers wear helmets, but passengers don't.
Women are seen riding with their legs over one side of the motor scooters.

Unwritten driving rules suggest that larger vehicles have the right of way, so it’s best to yield to them. While the scene may seem chaotic, it's impressive how efficiently everyone navigates traffic in a similar rhythm. 

There are no signs of road rage or shouting; drivers seem to resolve situations quickly and without fuss. The key is to think fast and move forward swiftly.

Grand Park Hotel in Nahkom Sci Thammarat 

very clean, friendly service, and excellent price.

We took a scooter ride to the city's newest Grand Park Hotel, located in the heart of the bustling city. We believe it is the only hotel of this quality in the city center. We were pleased to find ourselves in a spacious room with a king-size bed, a hot-water bathtub, a mini-fridge, air conditioning, laundry service, and a TV. Although there was an issue with the bathtub, the maintenance team responded promptly and was very friendly.

 

The Grand Park Hotel was the nicest accommodation we experienced in Thailand. For just $23.00 Canadian a night, it felt like a glamorous hotel, making it the most we spent anywhere. However, it was well worth it and still kept us within our $ 60-per-day budget.

The local mall, Carrefour
Refuge with air conditioning, and wandered the shops

We were looking for Thailand Specialty Rice that we could buy in Canada, but we never found it where we served this rice in Thailand, nor find it on the shelves to buy.

We stayed for a week at the Grand Park Hotel and took advantage of their in-house laundry service. Finally, we were able to get our clothes washed in actual washing machines and dried in real dryers. They returned our laundry, neatly folded, and placed it on our large king-size bed. 

By this time, our digestion was dictating how far we could travel each day from our air-conditioned room, which featured a real bathroom and real toilet paper.

The leftover chicken and fries from dinner
was brought into our room and is served in this funky chicken basket!

We dined at the Grand Park Hotel and, as Canadians, found the food didn't quite suit our tastes. While the food wasn’t terrible for others, it simply wasn’t our style. The tough, thin steak was served with a red sauce that I couldn’t identify despite my years of experience with spices. The grease from the fried chicken and French fries overwhelmed my senses, making it difficult to eat.

The following evening, we went across the street to a local restaurant that offered soya sausages in the morning, labeled as breakfast sausages, accompanied by fried eggs and white toast. In the evening, the same soya sausages were served thicker and sliced vertically, a style referred to as Bavarian. Though the dishes were similar, they felt different! 

We also visited several Thai restaurants and enjoyed the very spicy soup-style dishes, which always came with a bowl of white rice. We tried repeatedly to order noodles, but there seemed to be a nationwide shortage in Thailand, even though they were on the menu.

Local Movie Theater

At this point in our travels, we had given up on bug sprays and sunscreen, as well as trying to decipher menus or asking what ingredients were in our food. 

Bugs were everywhere—around us while we ate, walked, breathed, and sat. No matter what we did, we couldn't eliminate them, and we were all constantly damp from sweat and the monsoon rains.

Local Bird Seller

We are not opposed to trying different foods, but after two weeks, we desperately needed to find dishes with familiar English names, like hamburgers, French fries, and potatoes. Anything but more Thai food! 

My stomach craves something recognizable and easy to digest. We've even resorted to eating potato chips and other junk foods that I rarely touch back home. However, even those snacks come in special Thai flavors that can’t be found anywhere else in the world. 

Jimmy is always on high alert, often reminding everyone in his newly learned Thai that he could "die die, choke choke" if there are dried shrimp, clams, or other seafood in the food, due to his severe seafood allergy.

Pastry Shop in Nakhon Sri Thammarat City Center

JOY SPOT

In the morning, I discovered a pastry shop offering delicate pastries. While they were not bad, I suspected some of the ingredients had a hint of Thai flavor, possibly because a soy-based fat was used instead of butter. 

We ordered two trays, one of each item, and thoroughly enjoyed them alongside their flavorful coffee and tea, which helped cleanse our palates. The young servers were quite shocked to see us devour all the pastries for breakfast!

All sausages sold in stores and restaurants are soy-based
made in different sizes with various dyes
 to give it a variety of the same mix.

All sausages are soy-based, and the women in this grocery store
 thought it odd I was taking photos of the sausages!

We discovered a restaurant called Rock & Roll, which advertised a diverse menu that included steak, pasta, burgers, and pizza. It seems we can survive another week in Thailand! 

However, ketchup is hard to come by; it’s imported and quite expensive, so we have to ask for it specifically. Overall, the food wasn't bad and began to resemble the flavors we are more familiar with back home.

 

Dairy products are usually unavailable, and the fats used in cooking have a different taste, which gives the food an unusual flavor. The owner of the restaurant had spent time in Europe and adapted various recipes for use in Thailand. Eating here turned out to be the most expensive dining experience we've had during our stay, as all the ingredients need to be shipped from far away.

 

An American English teacher introduced himself and joined us at our table. He had left the USA for Thailand and had been living there for many years, teaching English to Thai people. He shared insights about local customs, issues, and laws with us. 

Eventually, he revealed that he was getting married the following day to his two-year Buddhist Thai girlfriend, who is half his age. Their marriage, conducted in a Buddhist ceremony, would significantly improve her family's standing in their community. Without this union, a woman in her situation might be viewed unfavorably and often derogatorily referred to as a “whore” for associating with a foreign man.

 

He also mentioned that many European and North American men come to these cities in search of young companions. Interestingly, we have encountered a few of them who prefer to keep their distance from other white people, likely because they sense that we do not approve of their choices.

Downtown Nakhon Sri Thammarat

We discovered that there is a National Museum of Nakhron Sri Thammarat, which is filled with numerous ancient artifacts from the region. Although nothing was labeled in English at the time, it was still worthwhile to see the displays and the rooms filled with artisan works from ancient times.

 

After spending a couple of days wandering around the city and exploring the museum and Buddhist temples, we were so charmed that we decided to extend our stay for the week. Jim called Supra and Siriwan, the Thai friends we had met on Kolibong Island, from our hotel room.

 

Despite some communication difficulties due to the language barrier, especially over the phone, we managed to convey that we were staying in their city. The next day, a group of Thais arrived in the hotel parking lot to take us on several days of adventure.

Lobby of the Grand Park Hotel, with our newly made Thai friends,
with one of my watercolor pencil drawings of the Tiger Temple.

Our new Thai friends have come to pick us up for some morning dim sum at one of their favorite Chinese market restaurants. They are all very excited to connect with us and have brought along their family members and friends to meet us, "the Canadians." 

The families have invited us to share their unique villages, lifestyles, and customs. Everyone is eager to ask us questions about our lives in Canada, and despite the significant language barriers, we somehow manage to understand each other.

Dog packs will make an area their home.

This poor dog is afraid of me.

I notice it has crippled back legs and has had puppies.

Buddhist Temple is being restored 

next to the Thai Massage in Nakhon Sri Thammarat

Buddhist Temple is being restored 

next to the Thai Massage in Nakhon Sri Thammarat

Fresh paint, glass enamel tiles, and gold.

Buddhist Temple is getting a fresh new exterior.

Next to the Thai Massage in Nakhon Sri Thammarat

Training school Wat Sala Mi Chai for Thai Massage. 

Located outside the city center of Nakhon Sri Thammarat. 

Each statue is a Thai Yoga Pose for healing developed

 by the photo posted at the end of the room. 

We discovered a training school called Wat Sala Mi Chai that offers Thai massage classes for just $3.00 for over an hour of instruction. 

The school is conveniently located on the main street and is easily accessible via the downtown bus. Many Thai individuals participate in the training, allowing both men and women to learn skills that enable them to earn a living while also contributing to the healing of their local communities at minimal cost.

Entrance for Wat Sala Mi Chai for authentic Thai Massage.

Entrance for Wat Sala Mi Chai for a Thai Massage

Inside the massage school, thin mattresses are lined up on the multi-layered linoleum floors, with fans blowing everywhere... no air conditioning or décor here, folks, just practical Thai massage at the best prices.

Young girls are training to become authentic Thai massage therapists.

To attend a massage therapy session, it’s best to wear loose clothing. Alternatively, they will provide you with baggy cotton bottoms to wear during the treatment. The session begins with a wonderful massage cream to help loosen any tension, after which the deep massage starts. 

The therapists use their knees and elbows, and may even stand on you for the ultimate Thai massage experience. This is not a light-touch spa massage; instead, it may feel intense as the therapists work to address your specific issues more quickly than a traditional relaxing massage would. 

It’s important to note that this is not a place for a typical spa-style body massage.

Various Thai poses for healing the body at the massage school.

At the massage school, privacy is limited since everyone shares the same floor space. However, the school does separate men and women into distinct areas. 

Regardless of the day we visit, we are always greeted with smiles, friendly conversations, and the soft sound of Thai music in the background. The people enjoy our presence, welcoming us to join their discussions and often taking the opportunity to practice their English and ask questions about our country.

The bathroom in the massage school leaves many Western visitors confused about how to use the facilities. It is clear that we are not supposed to use the toilet paper we brought; instead, we are expected to use our hands and the bucket of water next to the squat toilet.

There is a woman who attends to the toilets, cleaning them after each use. We need to remove our shorts and underwear for this part, but I can't find a hook to hang them out of the water's flow.

Throughout the week, we visited a massage school multiple times for massage therapy. While I sometimes couldn't participate in a session, Jim would go inside for his series of body massages. I would sit outside, watching the reconstruction of a Buddhist temple being restored by Thai graduate art students. 

Jim also tried a rather unpleasant tonic for internal wellness. He connected with a martial arts and massage therapist, as shown in the photo, while I experienced a different female therapist each time.

Wat Phra Mahathat was the first place in Thailand to introduce Buddhism.
The pointy structures are called stupas in the Sri Lankan style.

Wat Phra Mahathat and a Stupa

Wat Phra Mahathat Temple is a remarkable historical site for visiting and photographing. In 2012, the temple was proposed to UNESCO for protection and remains on the tentative list.

Each Buddhist Monk is represented by a look-alike statue built in their honor.

Here you will find ancient statues being resurfaced with new gold leaf and paint.

Since the 13th century, Wat Phra Mahathat has been transformed and fused with many other ancient religious practices, eventually adopting Buddhism introduced from India. 

At the time we were visiting in 2006, there was no English-language signage, nor plaques or typical tourist-vague information, nor internet access of any kind to research what this amazing place we came upon was. We realized this was a very ancient and unique place, so we decided to enter the Temple. 

Wat Phra Mahathat

Wat Phra Mahathat Entrance and desk to buy gold & flowers.

Wat Phra Mahathat is a truly fabulous location to experience, and it is a must-visit if you find yourself in this area. 

Joy Spot**  

Today, anyone can visit to donate. Visitors are required to remove their shoes before entering the premises and while inside the building. 

Additionally, you can purchase gold leaf to apply to the restorations, as indicated by the sellers. 

This is a wonderful opportunity for visitors to actively contribute to the restoration of the sculptures, as well as to pray and make offerings of fruit and flowers at various statues.

I believe this statue was influenced by another religion, yet it still represents all past religions. Today, every day, people can come to pray, view the statue, and apply gold leaf to their favorite parts. You can notice a few square spots in the photo above.

This old monk lived a long life and is decorated with orange sashes.
Also, you can see in the photo that this statue has been receiving more gold leaf from visitors.

This wall sculpture, created long ago, represents the original religion and artistic style of its time. As time progressed, these ancient beliefs and styles remained intact, while newer styles and beliefs developed alongside them.

Take note of the small squares of gold leaf that have been added.

The artist is working on an ancient area,
possibly one of the first reliefs created at 
Wat Phra Mahathat temple, as it resembles a relief more than a sculpture.

This spot was magical and colorful!
It was at the far end of the room,
where a meditation-and-prayer kneeling mat was placed.

The offering of flowers.

Notice there is a row and layers of statues.
Each row represents another era, moving through to the present.
Inside Wat Phra Mahathat.

A Pepsi cup filled with a plant is used as an offering.
Outside Wat Phra Mahathat.

Our newly acquired Thai friends have planned several sightseeing tours to some of their favorite and special places. Siriwan and her husband, Supra, drove us around for a couple of days, stopping at their private homes for quick visits to meet more family members and friends. 

Each time, we were offered local food, which was the most challenging part of our visits. I wanted to avoid insulting them by saying no to the more unusual dishes that I struggled to digest. Despite this, they remained cheerful and laughed with us about our stomach issues. 

Our conversations covered a range of topics, including U.S. politics during the Bush administration, child-rearing, music, movies, and favorite American film stars.

Purple Orchids

We have learned about the customs of Buddhism and how they influence the lives of its followers. In Thailand, everyone is expected to attend a Buddhist monk school for one year of training, regardless of age or gender. 

Participants, including women, shave their heads, and their families provide financial support during this period. The length of training can vary based on how long one wishes to dedicate themselves as a monk, and as their training progresses, the color of their robes will change.

City center Nakhon Sri Thammarat and the cross-over bridges.
People generally do not cross to the other side, and barriers along sidewalks discourage pedestrians from jaywalking.

As we began our adventure, Siriwan received a cell phone call informing her that her brother, the lawyer, had suffered a heart attack. We needed to hurry to the nearest Thai hospital. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by the sight of dirty, diseased dogs lingering near the entrance, while people lay on stretchers, waiting for treatment.

Fortunately, her brother was there to meet us, and it turned out he had not experienced a heart attack; instead, he had a major case of trapped gas from partying too much! At that moment, we also encountered Siriwan’s sister and the embarrassed brother.

Students in Nakhon Sri Thammarat.
The youth liked to approach us
to try out their English and always smiling!

Wat Kao Poon Temple 
South Thailand

Wat Kao Poon Buddhist Temple is at the top of a steep hill.

Only stairs up partway
to the Wat Kao Poon Buddhist Temple.

Our first tour with our Thai friends is to check out an old Buddhist temple, Wat Kao Poon, which has a village at the base of the hill to cater to locals and feed the Buddhist monks.

On the way up the hill, there are sculptures
and various flowering plants.

Incense lingers in the air.

There are many unstable, dangerous stairs leading to the top of the hill, where the Buddhist temple is surrounded by lush greenery and mountains. Once inside the temple, we viewed a hand-painted depiction of this area's history.

At the top of the hill, we can see the mountain in the distance.

ENTRANCE to the
Buddhist Temple Wat Kao Poon

Buddhist temple Wat Kao Poon is explained
 in an illustrated hand-painted story on the walls.
You can see a hillside with the temple at the top.

Buddhist temple Wat Kao Poon is explained
 in an illustrated, hand-painted story on the walls.

Inside Wat Kao Poon Temple

Once at the bottom of the hillside, our Thai families decide to eat at the local eatery at the bottom of the hill. Scruffy dogs and their pups scramble by our feet wanting attention and food. It is frowned upon to touch these dogs. I do it anyway and find these dogs very friendly.

The village at the bottom of Wat Kao Poon Temple.

Buddhist temple Wat Kao Poon sculptures 
seen everywhere along the hillside.

I'm excited to try more home-style Thai dishes while sticking to my new diet. It's important for me to eat mindfully and drink plenty of bottled water. Siriwan enthusiastically explains that in Thai culture, social activities often revolve around eating together and conversing.

Ban Kiri Wong 
South Thailand

Bridge to Ban Khiri Wong Village

Sign about Ban Khiri Wong and its eco-tourism.

Siriwan, our Thai friend at the front of the store.
Got someone to open the shop for us.
We bought some handmade items
 such as a handbag, shirt, and Mangosteen soap.

JOY SPOT

Ban Khiri Wong is a community of artisans known for their hand-dyed fabrics, which they use to make clothing and accessories. They also produce a highly prized soap that is popular among Japanese buyers for its skin benefits. During our visit, the village soap maker gave us a demonstration of the soap-making process and gifted us a couple of bars. I can confidently say that it is an amazing soap for my skin.

Making the dyes from natural plants
and cooking them over outside fires.

The big pots are boiling the natural materials

 for the dyes used in their cloth.

The residents developed an eco-tourism project to welcome visitors and encourage purchases from their well-stocked store.

The village won the Thailand Tourism Award for Best Culture & Community Travel in 1998.

Ban Khiri Wong Natural dye & batik of fabrics: 
Cottage Industry makes clothing & accessories from the fabrics.

We bought two handmade batik shirts and a comfortable shoulder handbag that I still enjoy using when I travel. The craftsmanship and quality of the sewing are truly excellent. Jim has worn his shirts for years while playing music on stage. 

 

You can read more about this area of Thailand and discover what to see and experience.

Mangosteen Soap Demonstration: 

The Soap Master here will be wearing 

one of the village's cotton hand-dyed batik shirts.

Mangosteen Soap Demonstration

Mangosteen Soap Demonstration, Minaz, Soap Maker,
& Jim with a couple of bars to take back to Vancouver.

While we shop, our Thai friends arrange for someone from the village to give an impromptu soap demonstration on how they make their prized soaps.

Hindu God Ganesh is celebrated in the village of Ban Khiri Wong.

The Hindu god Ganesh has been integrated into Buddhism, which helps explain why this village chose Ganesh to symbolize their eco-tourism efforts and the beauty they create from nature. 

 

Over the past year, I have used the mangosteen soaps, and they are excellent. They produce soft suds without leaving any sticky residue, leaving my skin feeling soft, just as promised.

Our hosts' little girls are swimming
in the river by Ban Khiri Wong.

The day was hot, so we decided to head over to the local hangout by the river that flows past the village. Many people were enjoying the water and cooling off, and our hosts' little girls chose to join the locals for a swim, while we indulged in more Thai food and enjoyed some Thai beer with our hosts, who had thoughtfully prepared another picnic to share. 

While the women typically don’t drink, the men wasted no time in downing as many beers as they could handle, except for our driver, Supra.

The parachute flower.
There are flowering plants everywhere.

There was plenty of giggling, facial expressions, and lively body movements that got everyone laughing, and somehow we managed to communicate just fine as usual. 

Jimmy was the center of attention, humorously stumbling through his attempts at speaking Thai, which made everyone laugh even more. Thai people love to laugh! Jimmy was the master of ceremonies, keeping everyone in stitches.

Flowering shrubs at Ban Khiri Wong

The guys have finished their beer, so we’re heading back to the city. We have plans to get a good deal on some Thai silver jewelry. The women are eager to take me shopping. Since we have our backpacks, we’re keeping our purchases minimal. Mrs. Amnuay loves to shop and wants to show us some of her favorite stores. Although we arrive late, the storekeeper stays open for us, Canadians!

 

I found a few pieces of jewelry to give as gifts, but upon closer inspection, I noticed the quality was much lower than I’m used to seeing in sterling silver. The jewelry had to be thoroughly checked for imperfections, and at one point, we almost walked out with nothing.

 However, the pressure from the women to buy something was strong. We ultimately found a few decent pieces, and we’re grateful for our friends’ efforts in bargaining to get us the Thai prices! Later, I did bring back one piece for an exchange, and they just smiled and said, "No problem."

Hindu God Ganesh

We say our farewells to our Thai friends at the hotel, and there is talk of another trip guided by our other host, Mr. Amnuay, and his wife, later in the week if we decide to stay.

 

Finding reliable places to eat has become a daily search. Across from where we are staying, we can find a restaurant that serves an American breakfast, which includes eggs, thin white toast, and beige sausage wieners. Regardless of what they call the sausage, we have begun to notice that it typically consists of soy-based sausages in various shapes, sizes, and colors.

 

In contrast, European sausage tends to be fatter and darker in color, often with slits cut along the top. In the mornings, we usually have breakfast sausage, which comes from the same batch but is lighter in color and smaller in size. These sausages are not the meat varieties we're familiar with and are most likely soy-based, sharing a similarly dull taste regardless of their appearance.

Carrefour Mall and air conditioning getaway 

from the blistering heat in Nakhon Sri Thammarat City!

While walking through Carrefour, one of the local malls, I noticed that the air conditioning was set quite low. As a result, many other Thais were gathered there, eating, chatting, and enjoying the karaoke bar. 

We ventured into their large chain store, which sold a wide variety of products, including the sausages we had been enjoying at restaurants. I took photos of their deli sausage section, and the women working there seemed amused by my enthusiasm. Jimmy, speaking in Thai, reassured them that we loved sausages so much. They laughed and thought I was a bit eccentric for taking pictures!

This is the village where Mr. Amnuay's family lives, and where we will have the boat trip of a lifetime. We do not know where this is on the map, nor do I know the name, but it's a mangrove protected by the KING, and where shrimp is cultivated for market sales.

Our gracious host, Mr. Amnuay, is in the back
and a local fisherman who will join us on the boat.

Our enthusiastic host, Mr. Amnuay, had planned a trip to his family's home village, where we were promised an ocean boat ride. We expected to board a large boat suitable for open waters, but, as often happens with language misunderstandings in Thailand, we ended up on a long-tail boat. This unexpected choice led us to an adventure that not many tourists get to experience.

Pink Flower with raindrops.

Supra, Siriwan, and Mr. and Mrs. Amnuay led us further into another jungle village, passing a large open-walled building that turned out to be the village school. It resembled an abandoned factory with no walls. We pulled into the driveway of Mr. and Mrs. Amnuay's home, where we were greeted by two flea-infested barking dogs who sniffed us and then wagged their tails.

 

We were invited into a beautiful room made of solid wood, which contained only a carved couch, a bookshelf, and a desk. The room felt like a yoga space, filled with peaceful energy. Off to the side, we noticed a door leading to a room piled with clothes and other items, and a stairway leading to the sleeping area.

 

Outside the house was a roofed porch kitchen. They had a propane tank with a single burner for cooking and a pipe that brought in monsoon water, which was saved for washing dishes. The refrigerator was located inside, next to the toilet. They also had a barrel of water and a system of holes for standing, with water everywhere.

 

In the area outside the kitchen, chickens roamed freely, and it was where they showered daily. Our two hostesses began cooking up a storm in their minimalist Thai kitchen, preparing food for the picnic we were having later.

 

Meanwhile, the men sat out front, drinking Thai Chang Beer under the outdoor veranda, which was occasionally interrupted by orderly marching sugar ants going about their day.

Local fisherman and long-tail boat owner,
Who will also join us on the day adventure?

One of the villagers stopped by to drop off freshly caught shrimp for The Canadians to enjoy. The food was delicious, but we soon found our stomachs rumbling again. 

We started to worry about how we would go to the bathroom while out on a boat in the middle of the ocean. This was going to be interesting… Let’s pray to the Shit Gods to bless us with stable bowels for the day!

Here is Mr. Amnuay's grocery and gas station.
Somewhere in a rural fishing village.

Mrs. Amnuay (an art teacher) and her young daughter
will join us for the boat trip.

We all pitch in to help unload Mr. Amnuay's A 
pick-up truck filled with supplies for his Gas Station Store.

We bid farewell to the older generation and pick up their daughter to join us. It is common for families to leave their children with grandparents while the parents live and work elsewhere. Mr. and Mrs. Amnuay, as well as Supra and Siriwan, are professional teachers at a large city school, which we plan to visit later that day, many miles away from this town. 

Next, we head to Amnuay's store and gas station to meet our captain and the owner of the long-tailed boat for our ocean cruise. Before we set off, we need to unload all the boxes from the back of the truck so that the hired staff can stock the shelves.

Mrs. Amnuay and her daughter. Here we go on our long tail boat ride.

Nine of us piled into the long-tailed boat, our picnic baskets filled with beer and food. Jim and I thought this boat would take us to the larger ocean vessel—turns out we were mistaken. Instead, we began cruising through the fishing village along the river, feeling like we were part of a National Geographic film. My camera clicked away as I captured this thrilling experience.

Here we go for the day's adventure with 9 of us and a picnic!

We wave to the locals like we are in a parade Sava Dee!

Houses are built right on the river.
It's interesting to us, we hear a TV set on.

This fishing village maintains its ancient way of life, but it's evident that even deep in the jungle, televisions can be heard blaring from the thin shacks along the river. 

We were informed that the KING provided TVs to everyone who couldn't afford them, allowing them to see how the world around them is changing.

Locals are buying and trading right off their boats.

The woman floats from pier to pier selling food.

Young boys going for a cruise on dads longtail boat!

Everyone is as curious about us as we are about them!

A village built literally on the flooding waters.

A village built literally on the flooding waters.

The house on the river seems more modern and is built of concrete rather than wood.

House on the river.

House on the river.

House on the river with large rain barrels to catch the monsoon rains.

Monsoon rains and tidal waters keep the water levels fluctuating.
Locals hanging out on their boats.

We cruise out of the mangrove swamps that flood during the monsoon season and learn that this is the oldest natural site in the world for shrimp cultivation. 

The King of Thailand has designated this area as a protected area, prohibiting any tourism development. As we navigate, we begin to wonder where the ocean our Thai friends mentioned is, and where the ocean boat is located.

What is that structure out in the water??? We are heading toward it.

The skies begin to darken as the sound of approaching monsoon rains fills the air. In the distance, we can see shrimp shacks rising above the big waves. 

What are these shacks used for, and how did they end up out here?

The structure in the water, as shown in the earlier photo, is a shrimp shack built for fishermen to seek shelter during storms. 

Although it is built in a precarious manner, we are encouraged to get out of the boat and enter the shrimp shack. Yikes!

The shrimp shack is constructed with scraps of rope, and the monsoon rains have begun. The water is rising rather quickly, and the shack is groaning and shifting, but not to worry! Be happy!

Siriwan, the group's interpreter, speaks some English. We sit and watch the water rise while enjoying our picnic lunch. 

The guys encourage Jim to drink more Thai-style liquor and beer, but the ladies stick to water!

Here sits 'Buddha' smiling Supra, who is not drinking 
and remains our trustworthy driving guide.

Our captain pulls up alongside one of the shrimp shacks. I think to myself that not all of us are getting out of this long-tail boat. 

Oh yes, we are all getting out! So, five of us crawl over to the far side and carefully sit down.

Here, the boys are enjoying Thai alcohol, music, and laughter, while our shack begins to groan and shake. It's time to leave what our Thai friends now call the "James Hotel."

Jimmy is hanging out with the guys to drink more Thai beer. We are five people on the other side of the shack, trying to keep the precariously built structure balanced. Our captain is drinking moonshine. To be honest, I’m starting to get a bit worried, but no one else seems alarmed. We do have a child to think about, so I hope we make it back okay. 

 

We’ve got more food again, including shrimp, pork, rice, and some other delicious dishes. I just hope this isn’t our last meal! I’m drinking more water while my hostesses point at me and say that I’m too skinny, urging me to eat more!

The Thais love their music, and our drunken musician, Jimmy, is there to sing their favorite North American tunes, which they enjoy and often join in on. Jimmy jokes around with the guys, and the laughter fills the air. However, I start to notice that the water level is rising dangerously close to the top of our shrimp shack. 

Suddenly, the whole shack begins to creak as it starts to sink under the added weight of our bodies. Realizing that the party is over, we quickly pack up and head back onto the long-tail boat, making our way back to the village. 

As we leave, the shrimp shack is officially nicknamed "James Hotel"!

South Thailand, the Princess's country residence 

right beside the KINGS Dam

South Thailand, the Princess's country residence, right beside the King's Dam

Our day isn't over yet, as our Thai hosts have more sightseeing trips planned for us. Our friends in Thailand enjoy discussing their King and Queen, highlighting the political and spiritual connections that many Thai people openly express.

The King's Dam in Thailand is next to the Royal Residence in the South.

There is a bridge connecting the King’s new power dam with another village, and nearby is the 'Cottage Palace,' where the princess of Thailand spends her summer visits. 

The princess is highly respected for her dedication to her country, demonstrated by her efforts to protect natural areas and to build schools, hospitals, and infrastructure such as roads and power plants, all aimed at improving the lives of all Thais. In contrast, the King and Queen's son is often viewed as a frivolous party playboy, considered a poor influence on Thailand's future after his father's passing.

Since I started this blog in 2017, I haven't found any information online about the place we visited or anything about King's Dam. Additionally, the King of Thailand passed away in 2016.

 

While we were standing near the power plant, admiring the Princess's summer residence, we also noticed some stray dogs lingering around, looking for scraps. There was always someone selling food and drinks nearby. 

The girls decided to get us juice that is often served in a plastic bag with a straw rather than in a cup. As I began to drink the juice, my stomach protested. I looked for an opportunity to discreetly pour it out without being noticed, and I finally found that moment just before getting back into the truck.

Tha Phaya a village where our teacher Thai friends have taught school.
A storm is lurking, and a young boy of the village has drowned.

We stopped by Tha Phaya, a village where we found the entire community gathered on the beach. They had discovered the drowned body of a young boy from the village and were in the process of carrying him home.

Next, we visited the large city school where our hosts teach at the local high school. Supra is a math teacher, Siriwan is the school counselor, Mr. Amnuay teaches science and history, and Mrs. Amnuay is the art teacher. The school is modern and serves a vast area.

Afterward, we headed to the oceanside village of Tha Phaya, where we planned to eat, drink, and meet more locals. Upon our arrival, we discovered that something had happened, drawing the entire village to the waterfront.

As we walked along a huge pier, we noticed that many villagers were lined up along the shore. Mr. Amnuay recognized a local police officer and asked him what was going on. It turned out that a teenage boy had fallen into the violent, stormy waves from a boat and was unable to fight the current. Another teenage boy, a better swimmer, attempted to rescue him but succumbed to an underwater current and drowned.

Fishermen had spent two hours searching for his body, and as we arrived, the inevitable occurred. The young boy's body was held high by the men as they carried him above their heads, making their way back to the village for a burial ritual. One of the village elders came out to the pier, chanting and throwing firecrackers to ward off any lingering negative energy. It was an incredibly sad scene, and we decided not to stay.

Next, we visited Ban Rang Nok, which has an interesting story and a history related to swallow birds. This area is famous for its cultivation of 'bird's nest' products, popular in Asian medicine and available in Vancouver's Chinatown. The sight of thousands upon thousands of chirping swallow birds was overwhelming—the loudest bird sounds we had ever heard.

Years ago, a wealthy Thai man came to the city and purchased the entire area, deciding to build a bird sanctuary. Passionate about birds, he constructed tall apartment buildings for the birds to live and nest in. However, due to bird dander and droppings, this attempt to preserve the birds has caused many locals to develop breathing-related allergies and even cancers. Witnessing this bird town was surreal, but I was so exhausted that I didn't ask my hosts to stop the truck for pictures; all I wanted was to return to our hotel and relax in a cool bath. Unfortunately, the adventure was far from over.

We continued on to a small, ocean-side city called Pak Parang, where we decided to eat again. During the monsoon rains, we stopped at a local market where women were buying food from local vendors, while the men picked up more beer. We then headed to Mr. Amnuay’s sister's home, where she is married to a tough, martial arts-trained Thai cop, giving Jimmy and him something in common.

Seven of us arrived at their small apartment and sat on the cool floor, spreading out all the food. I found one dish that Siriwan had chosen for me—some deep-fried blobs served with a good, hot, and spicy sauce, which I devoured. However, I was hesitant to try soupy items and white rice. For dessert, they served a pudding with floating ingredients, once again presented in a clear plastic bag. They teased me to try it all, but I remained firm and declined. "No, thank you."

Wonderful and gracious hosts, Siriwan and Supra,
saying goodbye at our Grand Park Hotel.

We said our goodbyes to our wonderful Thai friends. I managed to create a watercolor pencil drawing of a Buddhist monk and his tiger as a personal thank you for everything they shared. 

Today, we still keep in touch through email and Facebook.

Saying goodbye to our Thailand friends Siriwan
and our BEST driver, Supra!

Jimmy received a final, joking warning to NEVER seek a "happy ending" massage when Siriwan exclaimed, “HIV!!!!” We all laughed again and said our goodbyes in the hotel lobby, tears in our eyes, promising to always cherish our friendship with them.

JOY SPOT**  

Our conversations with our new Thai friends gave us valuable insights into Thailand and the history of the ancient city of Nakhon Si Thammarat. 

This clean Southern city has experienced little Western tourism, making it refreshing not to encounter drunken tourists wandering around with their rented Thai girlfriends.

Entrance to massage school Wat Sala Mi Chai
 for authentic Thai Massage.

One hot afternoon, after our massage at the school, Jimmy and I decided to return one of the broken necklaces we had purchased at the shop. We wandered through the back streets, where villagers came out to greet us, smiling and waving as they said, "Hello!" While exploring the busy streets, we eventually got lost. 

As we walked, I noticed a truck approaching with young boys in colorful uniforms standing in the back, bouncing around to loud music and banging on drums.

Behind them is another truck filled with young men wearing the same outfits, who appear to be in a trance. One guy sits on a chair with thick, red sticky fluid smeared all over his face, neck, and chest. At first, we think this is an act for a Thai horror movie, but then we realize that the young man is actually slashing his outstretched tongue with a large razor! 

This is absolutely sick; I want to go back to the hotel now! When we ask our Thai friends about this act of self-harm, they confirm that it is not a Buddhist practice. Instead, it is part of another religious ceremony celebrated once a year. During this event, participants go into a trance to demonstrate their ability to pierce their own bodies with various objects!

Locals in Nakhon Sri Thammarat.

Jimmy finally took the initiative to ask for directions to our hotel. He entered a furniture store and asked the staff for help. Shortly after, we were approached by a scooter driver who told us to hop on. So there we were—three adults crammed onto a scooter with a large bag. I was in a dress that was yanked up over my knees, sandwiched between two men. 

It was sweltering, and we were weaving through traffic with my knees just inches away from the moving cars. It was quite an edgy experience! It turned out we had walked in the wrong direction and were getting further away from our hotel.

In Thailand, the only vegetable we recognized was the cucumber, along with the occasional small, tortured-looking tomato. It seems that vegetables are not a staple in their traditional home cooking. Instead, they are more commonly used in Chinese cuisine. We didn’t find any peppers, onions, lettuce, carrots, or celery anywhere. However, we did come across fresh, fat, juicy maggots for sale, which are cooked crispy in hot oil and served with dipping sauces. 

The eggs available are wild in flavor and color, and they are delivered daily by men and women who balance baskets of eggs on long poles over their shoulders as they sell to markets, individuals, and restaurants.

Nakhon Sri Thammarat is a must-visit for those looking to avoid the typical glossy tourist experience. Our journey was enriched by the generosity of our lifelong Thai friends, and we enjoyed many hours of conversation about the USA and Canada, as well as their admiration for the King and Queen of Thailand.

Movies featuring kissing or any form of nudity are considered pornographic and are thus rated as off-limits. Mel Gibson is particularly popular among Thai women, and we were often asked to send films featuring kisses, even if they were in English. We found the shopping experience disappointing, with a heavy mix of Chinese knock-offs and junk items. We also learned that any products authentically made in Thailand bear the King’s stamp of authentication and can only be purchased in government-approved shops in Bangkok.

As our trip neared its end, we began to plan our way closer to the Bangkok airport. With just one week left, we received a few recommendations from our Thai friends. 

We embarked on another all-day bus ride to Khanom and Nai Ploa Beach, where we would stay at the only hotel in the area, next to the ocean. After arriving by air-conditioned bus, we continued our journey to Nai Ploa Beach on scooters, reaching our final destination in a small seaside village.

Travel Khanom Nai Ploa Beach

South Thailand

Nai Ploa Beach view of cottages 
& the ocean in front of our hotel balcony.

Nai Ploa, Supar Royal Beach Hotel. Love the geometry!

South Thailand Nai Ploa, Supar Royal Beach Hotel entrance.

South Thailand Nai Ploa, Supar Royal Beach Hotel entrance.

In our final week in Thailand, we traveled back to Bangkok and stopped in a village called Khanom. We decided to visit the village's beach, Nai Ploa. Since it is off-season for Thai tourism, the area mainly serves Thai families and business retreats. Although we were advised that the beach cottages could be a good place to stay, we noticed a musty, moldy smell and saw that the beds looked uncomfortable.

The hotel lobby has a large vase in the center.
ABOVE is an old print of a much younger King and Queen of Thailand.

We were disappointed with the shabby seaside cottages, so we decided to check out the only hotel in the village, the Supar Royal Beach Hotel. The hotel was mostly empty, except for a few young Thais who were staying there for free in exchange for their work and training. 

Once upon a time, the hotel had a reputation for being quite luxurious, but we learned that the owners had neglected it, choosing instead to invest their money in building a large shipping pier in Thailand. It was such a shame, as we moved from room to room looking for the best space with the least damage. Eventually, we settled into a room with a view for the duration of our stay.

Nai Ploa Beach no suntanning today!

I find a beach that beckons to me, and all I want to do during this part of the trip is soak up the sun between monsoon rains. Jim, however, is sunburned and needs to find some shade.

Nai Ploa Beach, One More Beer bar, restaurant, cottages, 

jeeps, and scooters for rent.

Jim goes for a walk and discovers another beachside cottage resort with a fantastic bar called “One More Beer.” It is owned by an American named Boyd “Butch” Bartusch. 

In July 2008, we received an email from his son informing us that the larger-than-life character Butch had passed away from cancer. He was a wonderful host and a memorable figure during our travels. His two sons, Michael and Brian, along with daughter-in-law Jen, are now managing the resort. The Thai staff brought a friendly energy, and there were plenty of opportunities to connect with a few other foreign travelers as well.

Beautiful NEW home built along the beach in Nai Ploa Beach.

Beautiful NEW home built along the beach in Nai Ploa Beach.

According to Butch, foreigners in Thailand cannot fully own property. A Thai resident must be involved as a partner in the ownership. Recent regulations require foreigners to leave the country within three months.

The jungle outside the back of our hotel
in Nai Ploa Beach, South Thailand.

Butch's goal with "One More Beer" is to create the best beef burgers and French fries in Thailand. He collaborates with northern Thai farmers to source the organic beef and potatoes his franchise needs to make these exceptional burgers. 

Although the use of cooking oils and spices gives these classic American dishes a unique twist, they still offer a pleasant break from traditional Thai cuisine. We often order our favorite Thai dish, banana pancakes, which are also served here with ice cream!

ONE MORE BEER
Nai Ploa Beach, South Thailand.

Nai Ploa Beach, South Thailand

Nai Ploa Beach, South Thailand

One More Beer also rents out scooters, jeeps, speedboats, and a motorcycle for tourists. Jimmy rented a scooter for the day to go on his own adventure through the villages, where he met more locals and practiced his Thai. He enjoyed hanging out with the locals, chatting, laughing, and drinking Thai beer. 

Meanwhile, I was finally left alone to enjoy a moment of solitude and sunshine on the beach. AHHH!

Nai Ploa jungle hike, South Thailand

Bananas along the side of the jungle road.
 Nai Ploa jungle hike, South Thailand

We hiked into the back jungle area where we heard Beatles music playing on a record player. We were told it belonged to a USA war veteran who prefers not to have visitors.

 Nai Ploa jungle hike, South Thailand

 
Nai Ploa jungle hike, South Thailand

Walking towards the jungle.
Nai Ploa Beach

We notice that there is only one small power line running through the jungle, providing electricity for those who want to connect TV sets, record players, or a single light. Even in this remote environment, television has become a daily passion, featuring Thai soap operas and entertaining game shows. However, kissing is not allowed, although seductive expressions abound.

HI COW! *  Nai Ploa jungle hike, South Thailand

Beautiful orchids...Nai Ploa Beach

Brilliant red flower
I need to wear SHADES!
Nai Ploa Beach

There were many plants in full bloom as I strolled around the village area. I wish I knew what were the official names of these flowers!

Walking along the road, I find many plants are in full bloom.
Nai Ploa Beach

It was time for us to leave Thailand and return to Canada. We still had a lot of traveling ahead of us to get back to Bangkok. Hopefully, our transportation plans will get us to the new Thailand Airport on time for our flight.

GOOD-BYE Nai Ploa Beach

As we left the hotel, our favorite manager from One More Beer drove us in the jeep to the overnight bus in town. The bus ticket included air conditioning, snacks with a drink, and a midnight food voucher to use at a tented food court along the side of the road, where hot meals would be available. I decided to stick to packaged food and water.

GOOD-BYE Buddhist SHRINES & Happy Thailand
We are heading HOME!

Jim and I traveled all night, leaving Nai Ploa Beach and arriving early in the morning in Bangkok, where literally hundreds of taxis were crowding the bus square. Everyone was competing for customers coming off the buses. It was complete chaos! 

As soon as we got off the bus, a Thai man approached us. I was heading to the bathroom, and he escorted me there while waving away the stray dogs. I paid to enter the flush toilets and had one final whiff of Thailand's public bathrooms.

After our bathroom break, our friendly taxi driver began negotiating the fare to the airport, which would be another couple of hours' drive through Bangkok's morning traffic. Jim wanted to see the car before agreeing to anything. The taxi driver had a new vehicle, and it turned out that he was also a world traveler and spoke English very well.  

As we drove through the noisy and smelly streets of Bangkok, we filled the time by sharing travel stories. The ride to the airport was enjoyable, and we tipped him generously for his service. Upon arrival, we were greeted by airport escorts in lovely uniforms, who were there to assist us in any way they could.

After a month of backpacking, we suddenly couldn't find our tickets, and we were freaking out! Finally, a lightbulb moment: we remembered tucking the tickets into a hidden compartment in our backpack. What a relief! 

We wandered around the amazing new airport in Thailand, trying to spend our last few Thai baht. Everything was very expensive, so I could only afford some Swiss chocolate and a couple of gourmet spices. 

We left with pictures, some seashells, a few clothing items, new friendships, and a few pounds lighter. We will return home feeling satisfied!

 Thailand is a place where I was pushed out of my comfort zone and experienced a glimpse of what life is like in ancient Asian cultures. We are all alike, no matter where we live; we all want to improve ourselves, enjoy time with our children, laugh heartily, and share our homes and beautiful nature with others. 

It was a trip of a lifetime for both of us. I just wish our digestion had agreed with the food we tried! Oh well, we lived to tell the tale!

I was able to tap into my artistic side recently. While in Thailand, I created a couple of sketches using watercolor pencils, a watercolor pad, and a brush. 

Once I returned home, I completed an oil painting portrait of Nid and her granddaughter, as well as a pastel drawing of a lotus flower.

 

To view more of my art, visit www.artgirlgallery.com.

Tropical Banana Waves
watercolor pencil on watercolor paper
by Minaz Jantz

Tiger Temple
watercolor pencil on watercolor paper
by Minaz Jantz

Breakfast with Grandmother
(Princesses of Thailand)
oil on canvas with gold foil
by Minaz Jantz

Lotus Divine
pastel on sandpaper
By Minaz Jantz

Thai children at Grand Palace Bangkok

The best part of Thailand is its people. Thai people are enthusiastic and always ready to welcome you with a smile. 

Whether you're in a back alley, a jungle, on the beach, in the city center, or at a temple, you’ll find that almost everyone wants to greet you with a cheerful “HELLO!” along with a wave and a smile.

Captain Bow says PEACE

We budgeted $60.00 CAD per day for all expenses for two people during the trip. While we didn't stay in the most basic accommodations, we avoided heavily touristy areas and chose to eat and travel where the locals frequented.

We recommend exploring Thailand's adventures beyond the typical tourist areas. 

However, we have one important piece of advice: bring medication for any bowel issues and pack some toilet paper and handy wipes. 

When your digestive system is content, you'll be happy!

 

Sawadee, 

Minaz and Jim, “the Canadians”